Varanasi, Agra, & Darjeeling

Alright, so I believe I was telling you all about my entry into Varanasi! Varanasi is one of my favorite places in India that I've visited so far. It is a city of I believe about 2 million situated along the Ganges river. It's amazing that a city of 2 million has begun to feel quite small to me! I guess Kolkata will have that effect on you. Anyway, Varanasi is seemingly composed of a maze of narrow alleyways that wind in and out and create quite the obstacle course for those who aren't locals! It's not just the maze that can be disorienting, but the giant black and white cows (many equipped with massive horns) are the real tricky part. Cows are considered extremely sacred to Hindus and thus this holy city by the Ganges is full of them! I've seen cows with painted horns (usually blue) and one cow was dressed up in a bright orange coat embroidered with shiny mirrors and colorful beads. The first day here, we spent the day exploring the narrow streets and took our first glimpses of the ghats down by the banks of the Ganges where supposedly 60,000 Hindus come down to bathe each day! I was standing on one of these ghats, when a small herd of giant black water buffalos came meandering down the long steep stairway and plunged themselves into the water. Not exactly something you see everyday! It's crazy to see children swimming alongside these giant beasts with absolutely no fear! Actually, the first thing I saw coming in on the train to Varanasi was a small shirtless boy in bright red shorts chasing after one of these giant water buffalos with a stick until it fled into a small pond nearby! And I thought I was brave! Not anymore! The second day, we began at 5:30 AM with a boatride down the Ganges at sunrise. It was really beautiful to watch the sun push its way up into the sky above the quickly moving and murky waters of the Ganges. Grace compares the waters to the way a thick stew looks. I wish I could say that this murkiness is attributed to natural causes, but unfortunately the Ganges is extremely polluted. There have been environmental efforts to clean it up a bit, but there is still much more work that needs to be done. That said, there was no bathing for me! My immune system is strong, but not that strong! :) Nevertheless, it was really beautiful to watch the people bathing. Each person seemed to have their own unique early morning ritual. Some would dunk themselves under the water in a methodical succession while others would cup the water in their hands and slowly bring it up to wash. Children would often just jump in and swim while mothers would quickly submerge their babies and comfort them as they rose to the surface. After our boat ride, we went on a tour of the Hindu temples in Varanasi. The first temple we visited was dedicated to the Hindu god, Sheava, and upon entering you're supposed to jump and ring this large bell suspended from the ceiling. Of course, it took me about 5 jumps and a line of Indians laughing at me until I managed to get a good "clang" out of it! We also visited a monkey temple which is supposed to be the "problem solving" temple. There were monkeys everywhere which was really cool because they are hilarious to watch and the baby monkeys that ride piggy-back style on their mothers are adorable! However, our guide warned us that they're quite aggressive...so we had to keep our distance! By the end of the tour, my forehead looked like an artist's palate; a combination of reds, oranges, and a bit of white! The tour was really informative and I learned a lot about Hinduism that I never knew before. After the tour, we went to a Muslim section of the city that is famous for its silk-production. We had the opportunity to see how they make saris on the looms and the fine detailing that is done on them by hand. We ended our day with an evening boatride down the Ganges. All the boats parked along this one section of the river and before long the Hindu ceremony began. It was really magical to watch with the priests methodically swinging canisters full of smoke and fire. There were also many bells ringing....kind of like a bell symphony...some bells made more of a gonging sound while others sounded so light and dainty as if they were tied to the feet of fairies flying accross the waters. It really felt like I was in another world!
After Varanasi, we embarked on another 15 hour train ride to Agra. We only spent one day in Agra which was totally fine with me! The Taj Mahal was amazing, but due to the massive amount of tourists it attracts, I really felt like I was a walking-ATM machine! You're constantly getting bombarded by shopkeepers with the cacophony of a mixture of "Maam, excuse me, Maam! Postcard? Ruppee, Maam! Marble! Maam! My shop! Excuse Me! Hello! Hello!" Needless to say, it was exhausting! Other than that, though, the Taj Mahal was definately worth the visit! The pictures really don't do it justice! We went at sunset which allows for beautiful golden hues to reflect off the marble dome. Its size is incredible and you really feel like you're a character in a fairy tale as you gaze up at it. So despite feeling like I had "tourist" written accross my forehead, Agra was worth the visit just to see the Taj Mahal.
The next morning, we set off on our 30 hour train ride and 2 1/2 hour jeep ride to Darjeeling which is where I'm at now. Darjeeling is my favorite place in India! It is absolutely beautiful. It's a town built into the hillside and surrounded by layers of hills, mountains, and finally the majestic Himalaya peaks. It's also surrounded by more than 80 tea plantations that supply 1/4 of India's tea! Let me just say that Darjeeling tea is also delicious...had some this morning! The guesthouse we're staying at literally feels like you're teetering on the edge of the world and we have an amazing view from our window! I watched the sunrise this morning which was nothing short of spectacular! I watched the tiny lights that dotted the hillsides fade with the coming sunlight and the brilliant colors that emerged with the dawn and illuminated the majestic snow-capped peaks. It was so quiet that you could hear the flapping of bird's wings as they soared on the early-morning air currents...almost like fish gliding effortlessly through the sea. I also caught a glimpse of the third highest mountain in the world from a rooftop later in the morning. Breathtaking! Yesterday, Grace and I visited the Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Center with some friends we met from France, Greece, and Germany. Three of them had been working at Missions of Charity in Kolkata...small world! Anyway, the refugee center was really serene and beautiful. We were able to learn a little bit more about the center and the kind of work they do. Also, we had the opportunity to visit the wool-spinning and carpet weaving facilities. It was really inspiring to see these traditions and art-forms kept alive by these beautiful people who unfortunately have been dislocated from their homes unjustly. Their work is incredibly intricate and it's a real treat to get to watch them create it with adept hands and huge smiles that illuminate their wrinkled and warm faces. We meandered down a wandering road that led us through tea plantations, forests, and other villages built further down the hillside. Incredible people and a majestically beautiful and serene place....what more can you ask for? I really am cherishing my last days in India and feel very blessed by God to get to experience such splendor and serenity. That's all I have to report at the moment...but I'll keep you posted on my other ventures in Darjeeling and my transition to Southeast Asia. Please keep me in your thoughts and prayers as I begin this next chapter in my journey. Love and peace to you all....

A Beginning....

I feel like it has been ages since I last wrote! So much has been happening in such a short period of time and my access to internet cafes has been limited! So, I'll do my best to catch you up as much as possible! Since my last entry, I returned to Kolkata briefly and then embarked on my trip to Varanasi, Agra, and Darjeeling (my current location!). Varanasi was one of my favorite places in India I've been to so far. From Kolkata, it took us 15 hours by train to arrive in Varanasi. Upon arriving, Grace was extremely sick and a massive cow tried to gore me a couple of times while I was chasing our auto-rickshaw driver down a series of narrow alleyways that led to our prospective guesthouse! Ok....I might be making it sound a little more dramatic than it was in actuality....but not by much! :) We immediately called the doctor who suspected that she had an amoeba in her colon! After a few tests, this was confirmed and she got some medications to kill them! She's doing much better now by the way! Ok...so I just found out that the internet cafe I'm at closes in 5 min! So, I'll try to write the full story tomorrow if time allows! :) Love and miss you all! ~Rachel

Learning in Pondicherry

Hello Everybody! I have exactly three more days in Pondicherry! We'll be spending two days in Chennai and then flying back to Kolkata before hopping on the overnight train to Varanasi on Sept 18th! Pondicherry has been a great place to unwind and I've been learning a lot as well. I've spent the past week organizing activities for children in a nearby village that this organization works with. There are usually about 15 children who come in the afternoons and they are not only incredibly cute, but are full of bright-eyed curiousity, full-blown enthusiasm, and unrelenting energy! Of course, I do have a few shy ones in my group, but it doesn't take long before they're laughing hysterically and joining in the fun. I've been teaching them songs, games (red light green light, hot potato, bubblegum bubblegum, man on mars, duck duck goose, etc), and reading them stories! It has been so much fun getting to play, dance, and sing with them. I definately realized how much I miss working with children...they really have such a light and sense of hope about them! On the last day, I brought poster paper and markers and had them each draw whatever they wanted. At the very end, we all got in a circle and each child stood up and shared with everyone what they had drawn. Many children drew their homes and its surroundings (flowers, birds, sun, clouds, flag, car) while a few children drew their school or some other kind of animal (i.e. elephant). They were amazing artists and I could tell they were really proud of what they had created.
Speaking of elephants, I saw my first elephant in India! There is this elephant that represents one of the Hindu gods (Ganesh) that mostly hangs out in the temple for this god, but can also be seen wandering the streets of Pondicherry! I got to touch its trunk and was amazed by its magnificence and beauty! I've also been learning a lot during my time here. I've had the opportunity to learn a lot about the rural development projects that the organization is involved with and a little bit about what kind of thinking must go into these projects and what kinds of considerations must be made. One day, I got to go on a tour with one of the architects for this project, Trupti. She introduced us to the concept of combining modern technology and ecologically friendly designs and materials with the limited resources and challenges that rural areas often present with. We got to see one of the beautiful vaulted buildings that she designed and built with the help of the villagers themselves. It was a truly beautiful design and it was amazing how waste and non-renuable resources were significantly minimized through simple innovative ideas and procedures. I also got to see a presentation on the language of Sanskrit which is considered by many to be a 'dead' language in India. This is tragic because it is said that the soul of India is contained within this language and the expression it allows. This organization, however, is incorporating the teaching of Sanskrit into its educational programs and children are now beginning to speak it once again! Really interesting and inspiring stuff! At this presentation, I got to meet Ron and Brenda who both work at the University of Oregon....small world right? Other than that, I've just been exploring Pondicherry on my bicycle and have even become used to "Indian traffic"! When I come back to Eugene, I think it will take me awhile to forget that I don't have to drive on the left hand side of the road and dodge endless motercycles, cars, buses, bikes, people, auto rickshaws, cows, etc!!!! I've also been trying South Indian food which is delicious but spicy! Alright, I'm off to do some more exploring.....!!!

Down By the Sea.....

Hello Everyone! I'm officially in Pondicherry! Pondicherry is a quaint little town situated alongside the Indian Ocean which is absolutely beautiful. Unfortunately, there's really no beach to speak of and the currents are too strong for safe swimming. But, it's still exhilerating to watch the waves as they crash against the rocky coastline. It's very hot in Pondicherry and the sun seems to be always shining which is nice, but sometimes makes it almost unbearable to be outside during th day. It's perfect in the mornings and evenings though. Grace and I have made it a habit to go down to the sea (as everyone calls it) around twilight. Once there, we munch on full ears of corn that have been cooked over coals and sprinkled with lime juice and curry...delicious! There's also this place called 'Le Cafe' that has open-air seating right on the coast. So, sometimes we go there for dinner or a cup of tea and watch the waves come in. The past couple of nights, there have been thunderstorms on the eastern horizon. We literally sit on the rocks that line the coast watching the distant lights of ships glow against the blackness of the sea at night as well as the lightning bolts that flash against the horizon. It's really beautiful and very relaxing which is nice after spending two months in the midst of the chaos of Kolkata.
I went out to the villages today with a Chitra, a woman who works for the Sri Aurobindo Society doing community development and educational projects. They work with a total of seven surrounding villages and we visited two today. She showed me some of the projects they have been working on which were really impressive. Where there used to be simple mud and grass huts that would completely flood during the rainy season, now stand new but still simple homes that have solar panels so that the families can have light during the evening. Also,this helps the children complete their studies. They have also built new school buildings and worked with the villagers to make education possible for the children living there. Much of what they do is based upon the model of empowerment, partnership, and sustainability. It's amazing to see how the people living in these villages have really responded towards bettering their community once given the opportunity. During our time here, Grace and I will be working with the village children; coordinating activities for them in the afternoons. We're going to observe tomorrow morning and then we'll be on our own! I'm really excited to get to work with them and I'll let you know how it goes! :) Until later....
~Rachel

Off to Pondicherry!

Hello Everyone! I only have about 20 minates to write this posting, but I thought I should let you all know that I'm flying to Pondicherry in about 5 hours! My last day at Missions of Charity was yesterday which went really well. It began at breakfast at the Mother House where I had to stand in front of all the other volunteers while they sang me a goodbye song. Luckily, I had a friend from the Netherlands that I met here whose last day was the same day...so I wasn't alone! Then, it was my final busride to Shanti Dan where I spent my time with all the women I've come to know. It was difficult to explain to them that I was leaving considering that I speak English and most of them speak Bengali, but through a series of handmotions and face expressions, I think I conveyed the message. There were a lot of hugs, smiles, songs, and laughter. All in all, it was a wonderful day and I know that I'll miss these women immensely. They truly have captured a piece of my heart.
Over the past week, I've been trying to do all the things in Kolkata that I've wanted to do. I played frisbee in this massive park with horses and a great view of the Victoria Memorial. It was organized by this guy from Canada who we met at the Mother House and by the end we had quite a gathering of people from all over the world, local Indian people, and even a group of children who postponed their soccer game for frisbee! It was really fun and it felt good to get some excercise! I also went to see the Botanical Gardens which are situated along the Hoogley River that runs through Kolkata. They are immense gardens that contain this 250 year old Banyan tree that has the second largest canopy in the world! It was one of the most beautiful things I've seen in India thus far. You really felt like you were in the middle of Jurassic Park...without the scary raptors of course! :) The gardens were also a really nice break from the chaotic noise of the city. Actually, we almost didn't get to go because there was this giant gathering of about 1 million people for some sort of political rally. All I know, is that Grace and I walked down to Park street which is where we usually can catch a taxi and there were people for as far as you could see in both directions and many bright red communist flags flapping in the wind. Politics are conducted a little bit differently here!
I also got the opportunity in the past week to visit a leperosy colony that is run by Missions of Charity. It was truly an inspiring experience that I feel fortunate to have had. Our trip began with an educational talk about the disease itself, the rehabilitative work that the center does, and the differing social stigmas that exist in India towards those who have the disease. We then got to tour the facilities and meet the patients. Once the patients have undergone treatment, the center offers them employment in tailoring, gardening, carpentry, etc. We got to see their work on the looms which was really impressive. Apparently, the make most of the sheets and clothing that are used at the various centers that Missions of Charity has throughout the city. They also make all of the saris that the sisters wear! The center also provides free education for the patient's children who are often denied access because they are "a daughter or son of a leper". The social stigmas in India often eliminate these people's chances for self-sufficiency and often strip them of their sense of dignity. Mother Teresa's goal when creating this center was to return this sense of dignity and provide viable opportunities for them and their children to do so. Really amazing work!
Now, I'm headed off to Pondicherry which I'm really excited about. I'm not sure what my internet access will look like at this point, but I'll try to keep you posted on how that experience is going. I love and miss you all. Until later.... :)

thoughts as time races by...

Wow! Time seems to be racing by at the moment. I feel like it moves past me with a combination of sights, hues, sounds, scents, memories, thoughts, hopes, and experiences. When I embarked on this journey, I thought that six months would feel like an eternity. However, I'm beginning to realize that I'll be on my way home before I know it;trying to frantically but methodically make sense of everything I've experienced while preparing for and looking forward to Christmas in the United States. I think these thoughts are coming to me because of my realization that I only have 8 days left in Kolkata! On September 1st, my friend Grace and I will be flying to Pondicherry in Southern India to volunteer our time at the Sri Aurobindo Society, an ashram that works on multiple community development, educational, and sustainable agriculture projects. I was referred to this organization by one of my former professors who is working on an international exchange program with their organization and the University of Oregon. I'm really looking forward to this experience and will be their until the 17th of September. While I'm looking forward to experiencing another part of India as well as a change of pace from the big city, I know that I'm going to miss the women at Shanti Dan whom I've come to know. I even know that I'll miss Kolkata in part; the sights, sounds, places, and people I've become accustomed to and built an affinity for. I'm beginning to realize, though, that this transition represents one of many chapters that this journey contains. Each chapter containing important lessons and experiences that will shape and change the way in which I see the world and my purpose in it. Therefore, change I must embrace.
Upon leaving Pondicherry, Grace and I plan to make our way to Darjeeling, Varanasi, & Agra. Darjeeling is situated on India's northern border and is surrounded by supposedly breathtaking views of the Himalaya Mountains. This is particularly exciting because the monsoons are supposed to lift from the area in September; allowing the views to which it gains it's fame. Varanasi is one of the holiest places for Hindus and many come to this city along the Ganges River to die. Finally, Agra is home to the Taj Mahal. So, there you have it, my tentative outline for the rest of my time here in India! On October 1st, I'll be flying to Bangkok, Thailand to begin yet another chapter.
I've been doing a lot of reflection lately on my time spent here in Kolkata. There have been many blessings coupled with many hardships. I wouldn't say many hardships for myself necessarily. Rather, I would say that I have bore witness to many hardships both with my ears and my eyes. I am beginning to really become aware of the living dichotomy that is Kolkata. For instance, on my walk from my hotel to the Mother House in the morning, I will often pass men 'shooting up' heroin and emaciated babies sleeping next to their mothers on the sidewalk littered with plastic rubbish. That same afternoon, I might find myself in a four level shopping mall watching affluent Indians take part in the fruits of effective Commercialism. I may speak with a rickshaw driver who comes to Kolkata in order to earn enough money to send back to his family or a woman at Shanti Dan who has lost her father to tuberculosis. I may also speak with seemingly well-off college students at Calcutta University; discussing philosophy and sipping espresso drowned in milk with a heaping scoop of sugar. This dichotomy is challenging. Both are parts of reality; but one reality seems acceptable and another inexcusable. I know that varying aspects of these realities exist in the United States as well, but their existance seems to be highlighted or perhaps more visible here in Kolkata.
I'm out of time at the moment, but I will write more on these reflections soon. Hope you are all well and my love goes out to each and every one of you.

Happy Independence Day India!

I dont' have long to write at the moment, but I thought I'd let you all know that India is celebrating it's independence from British rule today, August 15th! It's been fun to see how the city streets have changed in preparation for this holiday. There have been giant stages erected seemingly overnight with periodic performances and a constant stream of music. There are also tiny indian flags that are hung above the streets by the hundreds. Walking to the bus stop from Shanti Dan this morning, I was struck by all of the intermingling colors and sounds....a coming together of sorts for each person celebrating in their own way. I'm curious to see what sort of festivities will be held this evening!
Today, everyone seems to be in good spirits and the roads are relatively empty because of the holiday....a nice break for sure! A little boy came up to me on the street today and shared his umbrella with me during one of the periodic downpours this time of year...his name is Saheb and his kindness really stood out...alright...that's all I have time for at the moment...but I'll write more soon....