Varanasi, Agra, & Darjeeling

Alright, so I believe I was telling you all about my entry into Varanasi! Varanasi is one of my favorite places in India that I've visited so far. It is a city of I believe about 2 million situated along the Ganges river. It's amazing that a city of 2 million has begun to feel quite small to me! I guess Kolkata will have that effect on you. Anyway, Varanasi is seemingly composed of a maze of narrow alleyways that wind in and out and create quite the obstacle course for those who aren't locals! It's not just the maze that can be disorienting, but the giant black and white cows (many equipped with massive horns) are the real tricky part. Cows are considered extremely sacred to Hindus and thus this holy city by the Ganges is full of them! I've seen cows with painted horns (usually blue) and one cow was dressed up in a bright orange coat embroidered with shiny mirrors and colorful beads. The first day here, we spent the day exploring the narrow streets and took our first glimpses of the ghats down by the banks of the Ganges where supposedly 60,000 Hindus come down to bathe each day! I was standing on one of these ghats, when a small herd of giant black water buffalos came meandering down the long steep stairway and plunged themselves into the water. Not exactly something you see everyday! It's crazy to see children swimming alongside these giant beasts with absolutely no fear! Actually, the first thing I saw coming in on the train to Varanasi was a small shirtless boy in bright red shorts chasing after one of these giant water buffalos with a stick until it fled into a small pond nearby! And I thought I was brave! Not anymore! The second day, we began at 5:30 AM with a boatride down the Ganges at sunrise. It was really beautiful to watch the sun push its way up into the sky above the quickly moving and murky waters of the Ganges. Grace compares the waters to the way a thick stew looks. I wish I could say that this murkiness is attributed to natural causes, but unfortunately the Ganges is extremely polluted. There have been environmental efforts to clean it up a bit, but there is still much more work that needs to be done. That said, there was no bathing for me! My immune system is strong, but not that strong! :) Nevertheless, it was really beautiful to watch the people bathing. Each person seemed to have their own unique early morning ritual. Some would dunk themselves under the water in a methodical succession while others would cup the water in their hands and slowly bring it up to wash. Children would often just jump in and swim while mothers would quickly submerge their babies and comfort them as they rose to the surface. After our boat ride, we went on a tour of the Hindu temples in Varanasi. The first temple we visited was dedicated to the Hindu god, Sheava, and upon entering you're supposed to jump and ring this large bell suspended from the ceiling. Of course, it took me about 5 jumps and a line of Indians laughing at me until I managed to get a good "clang" out of it! We also visited a monkey temple which is supposed to be the "problem solving" temple. There were monkeys everywhere which was really cool because they are hilarious to watch and the baby monkeys that ride piggy-back style on their mothers are adorable! However, our guide warned us that they're quite aggressive...so we had to keep our distance! By the end of the tour, my forehead looked like an artist's palate; a combination of reds, oranges, and a bit of white! The tour was really informative and I learned a lot about Hinduism that I never knew before. After the tour, we went to a Muslim section of the city that is famous for its silk-production. We had the opportunity to see how they make saris on the looms and the fine detailing that is done on them by hand. We ended our day with an evening boatride down the Ganges. All the boats parked along this one section of the river and before long the Hindu ceremony began. It was really magical to watch with the priests methodically swinging canisters full of smoke and fire. There were also many bells ringing....kind of like a bell symphony...some bells made more of a gonging sound while others sounded so light and dainty as if they were tied to the feet of fairies flying accross the waters. It really felt like I was in another world!
After Varanasi, we embarked on another 15 hour train ride to Agra. We only spent one day in Agra which was totally fine with me! The Taj Mahal was amazing, but due to the massive amount of tourists it attracts, I really felt like I was a walking-ATM machine! You're constantly getting bombarded by shopkeepers with the cacophony of a mixture of "Maam, excuse me, Maam! Postcard? Ruppee, Maam! Marble! Maam! My shop! Excuse Me! Hello! Hello!" Needless to say, it was exhausting! Other than that, though, the Taj Mahal was definately worth the visit! The pictures really don't do it justice! We went at sunset which allows for beautiful golden hues to reflect off the marble dome. Its size is incredible and you really feel like you're a character in a fairy tale as you gaze up at it. So despite feeling like I had "tourist" written accross my forehead, Agra was worth the visit just to see the Taj Mahal.
The next morning, we set off on our 30 hour train ride and 2 1/2 hour jeep ride to Darjeeling which is where I'm at now. Darjeeling is my favorite place in India! It is absolutely beautiful. It's a town built into the hillside and surrounded by layers of hills, mountains, and finally the majestic Himalaya peaks. It's also surrounded by more than 80 tea plantations that supply 1/4 of India's tea! Let me just say that Darjeeling tea is also delicious...had some this morning! The guesthouse we're staying at literally feels like you're teetering on the edge of the world and we have an amazing view from our window! I watched the sunrise this morning which was nothing short of spectacular! I watched the tiny lights that dotted the hillsides fade with the coming sunlight and the brilliant colors that emerged with the dawn and illuminated the majestic snow-capped peaks. It was so quiet that you could hear the flapping of bird's wings as they soared on the early-morning air currents...almost like fish gliding effortlessly through the sea. I also caught a glimpse of the third highest mountain in the world from a rooftop later in the morning. Breathtaking! Yesterday, Grace and I visited the Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Center with some friends we met from France, Greece, and Germany. Three of them had been working at Missions of Charity in Kolkata...small world! Anyway, the refugee center was really serene and beautiful. We were able to learn a little bit more about the center and the kind of work they do. Also, we had the opportunity to visit the wool-spinning and carpet weaving facilities. It was really inspiring to see these traditions and art-forms kept alive by these beautiful people who unfortunately have been dislocated from their homes unjustly. Their work is incredibly intricate and it's a real treat to get to watch them create it with adept hands and huge smiles that illuminate their wrinkled and warm faces. We meandered down a wandering road that led us through tea plantations, forests, and other villages built further down the hillside. Incredible people and a majestically beautiful and serene place....what more can you ask for? I really am cherishing my last days in India and feel very blessed by God to get to experience such splendor and serenity. That's all I have to report at the moment...but I'll keep you posted on my other ventures in Darjeeling and my transition to Southeast Asia. Please keep me in your thoughts and prayers as I begin this next chapter in my journey. Love and peace to you all....