Switzerland & France & Home!

Bonjour!

Hello from the snow-covered lands of Switzerland & France where I have spent the last 10 days transitioning from tropical beaches to freezing temperatures and snow-filled skys! Do not feel too bad for me though! I have been thouroughly enjoying my time in Europe and have had a blast visiting Amber. I spent some time with the little boy, Ryan, who Amber is an aupair for as well as Malcolm, the giant great dane that keeps an eye on the beautiful old home that the family lives in. We also spent a lot of time exploring Geneva which has a quaint yet modern feel and is alight these days with beautiful tinkling colered lights. Christmas is definitely in the air, but it is not as frenzied or frantic as in the states. It is more subtle and relaxed. As you walk down the streets of Geneva in the evening and admire the abundance of lights, you take notice of the various caroling groups, musicians, and vendors celling roasted chestnuts and hot-spiced wine. We also walked through old-town where you could almost breath in the history that ran thick in the air. I spent a long time gazing at the enormous cathedrals and character-filled buildings with their colored shutters and charm. There were little shops, gallerys, and cafes every which way and I loved the glow from their windows as the day faded to evening. Needless to say, Amber and I did a lot of shopping! We also spent a lot of time gazing at the chocolates and breads that seemed to be everywhere. I have to say that swiss chocolate is to die for and the bread is beyond what words can explain! :) I also tried some French cheese at a street market that we went to. I know I am supposed to be a vegan, but that was one cultural experience I could not pass up! Delicious by the way! Plus, the French are serious about their cheese with several dozen giant rounds of different varieties on display...who could pass up a bite? And fondue....ummmm.....amazing! Anyway, Amber and I took a train to a town in Switzerland called Lausanne. The train was top-notch, timely, and offered a beautiful view of the Swiss countryside as we glided on by. We spent most of our time in Lausanne soaking in the architecture and exploring the various shops. We also drove to a town in France called Annecy where we spent a couple of days shopping, walking down by the lake, and exploring the historic area down by the canal. It was really beautiful and I had a blast. I even think I am getting used to the cold and have still managed to not get sick! Anyway, I have loved my time in Europe and have even entertained ideas of how I can make my way back! No worries, though, I am definitely ready to be home for a good long while! This has been an adventure of a lifetime. I know that I have grown and learned so much about myself and life in general. I would not trade this time for anything. However, one of the things that I have learned during my travels is the value of family and friends which is why I am really looking forward to coming home! My flight leaves tomorrow morning and I will be home just in time for the holidays. I love and miss you all and cannot wait to see each and every one of you! Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays if I do not see you before then!

love,

Rachel

Adventures in Thailand!

Hello Everyone!

So, I fly to Geneva to visit Amber this evening which marks my final day in SE Asia! The past two and a half months have felt like a whirlwind and I can't believe I'll be home in 11 days! I'm also trying to mentally prepare myself for going from sunny summer temps in Thailand to the middle of winter in Geneva! I told Amber to meet me at the airport with a warm winter coat!!
Anyway, I have to catch you up on my adventures in Thailand! I've been traveling with my friend, Anne, which has been really fun! We spent a few days in Bangkok shopping, visiting wats, and eating lots of Thai food. From there, we headed to Chang Mai via the night train. Chang Mai is in the Northeast corner of Thailand and its cooler temperatures were welcome after nonstop sweating in Bangkok! :) The day after we arrived, we signed up to be mahouts (elephant trainers) for a day. We drove out into the country for about an hour and a half with a stop at a local market to pick up bananas for the elephants. Once we arrived at our destination, we met a couple of the elephants and were taught how to climb onto an elephant without using ladders, platforms, etc. I have to say that that was a bit of a challenge, but I managed to do it! Don't worry...I have pictures (which are quite entertaining by the way)! We also learned commands and motions for getting the elephants to move forward, reverse, turn right and left, and to stop. From there, we rode the elephants (bareback!) through the jungle and up a creek bed. We took them to a swimming hole and were able to wash them and ourselves! One of the elephants we were riding was a somewhat recent mother and so her baby followed us everywhere we went. He was so cute and very playful in the water. One of his favorite games is to ram into you which he was quite good at underwater! After their bath, we rode them to a nearby mud hole where they got their second bath! We also joined in the fun! By the end, we were completely covered in mud right along with the elephants. Over the course of this amazing experience, I truly fell in love with these magnificent and beautiful creatures. I loved hearing the rushing air moving through their trunks as they searched your hands for bananas and learned your scent at the same time. I loved gazing at their long eyelashes that covered their small wise eyes. I loved running my hand over their rough hairy skin and picking up their huge heavy ears. I loved seeing the mischevious and playful look in the baby elephant's eyes just before he came tumbling at you. As you can probably tell, it was a truly memorable experience!
Anyway, the next day we were heading on another drive out into the jungle to go zip-lining! The company we went with offered the longest and highest zip-line in all of Thailand. While I was a bit nervous, I soon got over the nerves and reveled in the thrill of rushing through the jungle canopy! Our guides were hilarious and definately took advantage of our tentative fearful demeanors with various antics and comments. :) There were some platforms where you had to use a hooked bamboo stick as a break. Holding onto the zipline, breaking with the bamboo stick, and remembering to lift your legs at the platform was definately a challenge considering my innate lack of coordination! There was one zipline where I was flying accross like a bird with my arms and legs extended. Apparently I didn't weigh enough or didn't get enough "uumph" at the beginning and thus found myself stuck in the middle, stationary, and suspended in mid-air. The guide had to come rescue me! We all had a good laugh though!
The next day we spent exploring downtown Chang Mai until our train left. We took the night train to a town called Ayuthaya which is the famous old capital of Siam. We spent the day exploring ancient wats and ruins. Not quite as impressive as Angkor Wat, but still worth the visit. From there, we headed to the South of Thailand where we took a ferry accross to the small island of Koh Chang. We spent three days here swimming in the tropical water, exploring the beach, and even sea kayaking. There were very few tourists and you were usually the only one on the beach! Not only that, the island itself along with the color of the water were absolutely spectacular. It was the best and most relaxing way to end my time here in SE Asia! Now I'm back in Bangkok and preparing for my transition to wintery Geneva! I will keep you guys updated on how that goes!

love and miss you all,

Rachel

From Laos to Bangkok

Hello Everyone!

So, I find myself back in Bangkok, Thailand and am finding it a bit surreal that I was here two months ago on the verge of beginning my SE Asia adventure. Now, I'm towards the end of my trip and marveling at how quickly time can fly by! While I'm feeling ready to come home and have even had my bouts of homesickness, I'm still excited for this last leg of my journey here in Thailand. I'll be picking my friend, Anne, up from the airport this evening and we'll be traveling together until I go and visit Amber in Geneva on Dec 9th. While I've learned so much about myself and life traveling solo and wouldn't trade that for anything, I'm definately excited to travel with a friend again!
Anyway, before I get ahead of myself, I need to fill you in about my time in Laos. Laos was one of my favorite countries I've visited during my travels. It has a unique and rugged beauty and a relaxed feel that I came to love. The country seems to be composed of these seemingly vertical limestone mountains that jut out of the ground every which way. They are often covered and surrounded by dense jungle and the wide open fields and gardens of the local people sustaining off the land. These mountains are also home to countless caves that wind themselves through the rock and contain gorgeous limestone formations that I had once only known through television. I went on a day trip with a group of Australians and a local guide to four of these caves when I was in Vang Vieng, Laos. One of the caves we must have walked into for 20 min with no end in sight! Once we were finally stopped by some shallow water, our guide had us turn off all our lights and you literally couldn't see your own hand in front of your face....it was that dark!! While this cave was more of a long corrider, we also visited more wide-open caves that contained beautiful limestone formations. In fact, some of the formations could be played like musical instruments as our guide demonstrated for us! The last cave that we visited was a water cave and we literally entered this particular one on intertubes guided by a rope. It wasn't a very big or impressive cave, but it was still fun to lug yourself through the water and explore this chasm in the earth. We spent the rest of the afternoon hiking through the countryside and local villages and tubing down the river to our starting point....Vang Vieng. It was an amazing experience peering up at these huge mountains covered in thick jungle foliage from the vantage point of a tube on the river! However, I have to say that the weather was a bit chilly and overcast that day. So, by the end, I couldn't think of anything but hot soup and tea! Anyway, the next day I rented a bicycle and spent the morning exploring the surrounding areas. While my bike felt like it weighed 500 pounds, the scenery was breathtaking and it was nice to set my own pace and be able to watch the occasional soccer match or observe the rice harvest in action. That afternoon, I took a long walk out into the countryside which was a welcomed escape from the tourist trap of Vang Vieng itself and a great opportunity to engage with the people and beautiful landscape.
After Vang Vieng, I went to Laos' old capital of Luang Prabang. It is an absolutely beautiful city that is build on a peninsula that juts out into the Mekong River. I had a lot of fun biking around the town and taking in the amazing river views. Also, every night, the main downtown street gets transformed into a seemingly endless night market with hundreds of vendors selling colorful and unique handicrafts. I definately had fun exploring! Also, one of the days, I went on a trek to visit some local villages and an incredible multi-tiered waterful with clear tourquise water. I even jumped in for a swim with some of the people from my group who I was trekking with! While the water was quite cold, the pools at the bottom of the falls were so clear and beautiful that it was definately worth it!
Unfortunately, I spent my last two days in Laos feeling sick. It was nothing serious and probably my body's way of telling me to slow down a bit! So, I took the opportunity to read a few novels and relax which wasn't so bad. :) Anyway, I'm feeling better now and am looking forward to starting my Thailand adventure! I'll keep you guys updated!

love and miss you all,

Rachel

PS: Happy Thanksgiving! I'm so sad that I'm missing my favorite holiday, but I think Anne and I are going to go out for a Thai vegan feast! So, I'll let you know how that goes! :)

Hello from Laos!

Hello Everyone!

So, I'm officially in the capital city of Laos after a 24 hour bus ride from Hanoi! While I can't say that I enjoyed the bus ride all that much, I am happy to be here! When I last wrote, I was headed to Sapa for some hiking. Sapa was absolutely beautiful. It's a town situated up in the mountains and surrounded by villages who have built their lives and livelihoods literally into the hillsides. My group was quite international with 2 Australians, 2 Dutch, 1 Malaysian, and myself! We began our hike walking through Sapa which offers some breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and the vast valleys below. It was a bright and sunny day with not a cloud in the sky.....a perfect day for a hike! We descended into the mountain valley which took us through terraced rice paddies, indigo patches, and vegetable gardens. We also passed massive water buffalo munching away in the rice paddies! We passed through several villages where the Hmong people live (a minority people group living in this region of Vietnam). As we walked through the villages, there were countless chickens, ducks, puppies, piglets, and water buffalo to observe. We arrived at our "homestay" which to my disappointment was more like a simple hotel than a night with a family. It was still nice though. We walked down to the river and went for a very refreshing swim which felt so good after a long hike under the sun. That evening, I walked up this road heading into the hills and met many of the villagers along the way. It was away from where most of the tourists hang out....so I was able to have more authentic interactions with the people which was nice. Everyone was very friendly and the views as I walked up were beautiful as the sun began to set. The next morning was chilly and the fog so thick in some places that you felt like you were hiking through a cloud! While this limited the visibility, the cool weather was nice and it was kind of cool hiking through bamboo forests with all the fog. We also visited some more villages and got to take a peak into the lives of some of the people living there. All in all, it was a great experience. That evening, I was on the night train headed back to Hanoi where I spent the next day. I visited the Museum of Ethnography which was quite impressive and documented the great diversity that is present in Vietnam. It was really interesting to learn about all of the different cultures, languages, and ways of life that are dispersed within Vietnam. I was kind of sad to leave Vietnam....it really is an amazing country! But, I'm excited to discover Laos as well! I'll keep you updated on how that goes!

love and miss you all,

Rachel

Update from Vietnam!

Hello Everyone!

Please excuse my sporadic posts to my blog these days, but life seems to be moving faster than I can run! Vietnam is an amazing country and it has totally blown me away in ways that I never expected. After Ho Chi Minh City, I went on a three day moterbike tour with a company stationed out of Dalat which is in the central highlands of Vietnam. I traveled with a girl from Canada named Maggy who is a chef (we had much to talk about considering my passion for food!). It was an incredible trip and offered the chance to not only take in the breathtaking views, but discover a piece of the "real Vietnam" that most tourists don't see. We stopped at many places along the way...from massive waterfalls to small villages where I learned to use a well and had the opportunity to take a glimpse into people's homes and ways of life. I also got to visit a silk factory where I walked through the process from the silk worm to the final product. I even ate a silk worm...they taste like peanuts! I know...not a very vegan thing to do! Don't worry...I'm on the right path once more. :) There were many more stops and things I learned along the way which I don't have time to record at the moment, but I have them all documented for good stories upon my return! My journey ended at Nha Trang which offers a gorgeous coastline. From there, I took the bus (31 hours!!!) to Hanoi in the North of Vietnam. I spent a day exploring the city which is continually moving and offers some great "people-watching" opportunities! The next day I was off to Halong Bay where I went out on a boat and soaked in the amazing sights that it has to offer. Basically, there are hundreds of limestone islands that are jutting out of the water. It appears to be a mountain range in the middle of the sea and is really surreal! We also had the opportunity to visit some vast caves on these islands that contain amazing stalagtites that take on all kinds of shapes and structures. I had a hard time convincing myself that what I was seeing was real...it almost looked like a movie set. From there, we went further into the islands and had the opportunity to do a bit of kayaking and swimming! The water was so warm and it felt so good to swim after spending 4 + months in intense heat! :) I spent the night on the boat and was really blown away by the way that the early morning sun illuminated the islands and cast their reflections on the sea. Anyway, now I'm back in Hanoi and am taking the night train this evening to Sapa which is up in the mountains. There, I'll be doing some trekking and staying in a homestay with a Vietnamese family. I'll let you know how it goes!

love and miss you all,

Rachel

Ho Chi Minh City....

Hello from Vietnam!

I'm currently in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) which is a city of 8 million that is literally pulsating with energy...in fact...it's almost palpable. It also contains more moterbikes than I ever thought possible. It's like an icon here. There is something about the energy of this city that I absolutely love. The people are outgoing and friendly, the food is diverse and fantastic, and there is color everywhere. The first evening I arrived, I met up with my Swiss friend I met in Kratie and explored a festival that was going on in a nearby park. The trees were completely illuminated in sparkling white and blue led lights and there were various performances going on from traditional dances and songs to tacky American karaoke (Santana I believe) to awesome performances by two guys on stilts dressed up as dragons! There were also countless food stalls selling everything from pho to sugarcane juice. There was also a Vietnamese version of a pinata which was really amusing until the person who was blindfolded, dizzy, and yielding a big stick started heading for the crowd instead of the target! :)
The next day, I headed off to the War Remnants Museum which documents the atrocities committed against the Vietnamese people during the Vietnam War. Most of the documentation is done through photography. Many of the photographs were taken by men and women who died while completing their work for the sake of presenting the true face of war to humanity. The pictures were horrific yet powerful and I walked out of that museum ashamed to call myself an American in many ways. We learn about the Vietnam War in school from a distance and are aware of the great public outcry and antiwar sentiment that was present. However, I don't remember learning about the atrocities we committed against innocent civilians; particularly women and children. Nor do I remember any discussion of our widespread use of chemical agents that has left generations of Vietnamese families plagued by serious birth defects and paralyzing abnormalities. War is such an ugly part of humanity. It is difficult to believe that we as humans are capable of such evil, hate, and senseless killing. Anyway, needless to say, it was a powerful experience that has left me deep in thought. Today, I went to the Cu Chi tunnels which are an extensive underground tunnel system used by the Vietnamese during the war. During the tour, we got to climb inside the tunnels which are so small that even I had a difficult time moving through them! There are portions of the tunnels which are completely dark and if you're claustrophobic....a complete nightmare! It's amazing to me that the Vietnamese would spend entire days down in these tunnels! I also learned a bit about the tactics used against the Americans during the war....again war is an ugly thing.

Vietnam seems to be completely different than Cambodia. It is much more "high-paced" and it took some getting used to after being in laid-back Cambodia for a month! I really enjoyed my time in Cambodia and in many ways in helped me put a face to the people I had previously spent so much time learning about. However, in many ways it also left me with new questions and areas for thought and research. On my last day in Cambodia, I visited the Killing fields which are located approximately 15 km outside of Phnom Penh. As you first walk through the entrance, you see a giant pagoda. As you approach it, you realize it is full of human skulls that stare back at you; communicating the sense of horror that this place represents. There is also a museum documenting the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge. As you walk through the Killing Fields themselves, you find yourself walking along a narrow trail surrounded by large holes in the ground. These holes are mass graves that have been uncovered. The largest mass grave contained 450 bodies. There was also a mass grave full of the bodies of women and children. I found myself returning to the hundreds of photographs on display at the S-21 genocide museum; photographs of men, women, and children. Some stared back at you with raw fear while others looked defiant and angry. Regardless, though, they all represented a face of someone who suffered and died under the Khmer Rouge and whose bodies were callously thrown into the mass graves at the Killing Fields. I could honestly go on for pages about what I've seen and experienced at these sights, but I'll spare you the horror and give myself more time to really think through these experiences. Again, the true face of war is not what you see on television. The true face of war would depict average civilians, women, and children and the harm that has come to them.
Aside from these experiences, I also visited the Royal Palace and National Museum in Phnom Penh. These were beautiful and impressive sites showing the rich history and culture of the Cambodian people. I also spent a day at the Royal University of Phnom Penh which was arranged by my thesis adviser from college. I had the opportunity of attending a conference held by the psychology students in recognition of World Mental Health day. I even had my own interpreter as the presentations were given in Khmer. Afterwards, I had lunch and spent time with some of the directors and professors in the department which was really interesting. Finally, I got to sit in on a masters student's class which was covering counseling techniques used with clients suffering from PTSD. It was really cool to get to interact with the students and professors in this setting. I was also really impressed with the work the department is doing within the community. It is the first and only psychology department in the whole of Cambodia and is actively educating and training up mental health professionals who are beginning to meet the huge mental health needs within the country.
I also had the opportunity to see the beginnings of a huge boat racing festival that takes place along the Mekong River in Phnom Penh annually. People come from all over Cambodia and the world to take part in and/or observe the races. The boats are extremely long, lavishly decorated, and contain approximately 50-80 people who must all row simultaneously and furiously if they are to have a chance at winning. It was really an impressive and unique sight!
Alright, that's all I have time for at the moment, but I'll keep you updated on my travels in Vietnam! Love and miss you all!
~Rachel

Phnom Penh and Beyond!

Hello Everyone!

I'm currently in Kratie, Cambodia which is a small city of about 80,000 situated along the banks of the Mekong River. The Mekong River is absolutely enormous and this particular stretch offers some of the most beautiful sunsets I've seen in Cambodia so far. Yesterday, I went with a friend I met from Switzerland to visit a nearby island. From this side of the river, the island looks like the opposite shore, but in actuality the river extends beyond the island to a distant shore you can barely make out. We took a ferry across and explored the island which offered a unique opportunity to see a piece of rural Cambodia. Cutting through the middle of the island, you saw brilliant green rice fields, small bamboo dwellings usually perched upon stilts for the rainy season, and lots of white and tan cows. One of the cows was getting a bath in a small pond....I have to say I was slightly jealous considering how hot it was! The people were very friendly and from the looks we were getting, you could tell there aren't many tourists that make it this way. After spending the morning exploring the island, we took the ferry back across the Mekong and made our way to a nearby town where it's possible to sight the freshwater dolphins for which Kratie is famous. We rented a boat which took us out to the middle of the Mekong where the dolphins hang out. After awhile, you began to see them as they popped up for air. The Irrawaddy dolphins are actually an endangered species and you can only spot them in two places in the world! I have to say that it was really strange to see dolphins in a river in the middle of Cambodia! We went around sunset which was a peaceful and beautiful time to watch the dolphins move among the currents of the river whose waters were golden at that time of day. Overall, it was one of my favorite experiences in Cambodia so far!

I will catch an early bus for Phnom Penh tomorrow morning before heading to Vietnam on the 1st of November. I've done most of what I've wanted to do in Phnom Penh except for visiting the Killing Fields. After visiting the Tuol Sleng (S-21 prison) Museum (i.e. genocide museum), I felt like I needed some time to process what I had seen before venturing off to this other site. I will go to the killing fields on my last day in Phnom Penh which I'm sure will be a difficult but important experience. As many of you know, I wrote my thesis in college about the effects that war has on the prevalence of psychological distrubances among children; particularly children growing up under the Khmer Rouge. I spent countless hours researching this topic and yet I still didn't feel prepared for what I saw at the Tuol Sleng Museum. I'm waiting to write about this experience until after I have visited the Killing Fields, but I will say that it has given me so much to think about and truly be thankful for. So, I will give you a full report of my experience in Phnom Penh once I return to the city.

love and miss you all,

Rachel

Cambodia Update!

Hello Everyone!

I can't believe it's been two weeks since I've last written! I was sick for a few days and have had limited internet access where I'm staying! So, sorry for the delay! I'm doing really good and am currently staying just outside of Phnom Penh where I'm volunteering with an orphanage connected to my church back home. A couple working with this organization offered to let me stay with them which has been really nice. It's been a really long time since I've been in a homelike environment! I was also really thankful for them when I got sick (my initiation to Cambodia ;). Anyway, I've been helping out with whatever needs to be done which includes tasks like unloading semi-trucks, mixing and pouring paint, and hanging out with the kids and youth at the orphanage. The couple I'm staying with (Bob & Crystal) have an open-door policy in there home when it comes to the kids, so I get plenty of opportunities to interact with them. I even have one of the girls teaching me Khmer! I have to study my numbers and words because I have a test tonight! :) They also have a dog that just had 7 puppies last night! They are so cute and it has been really fun to be here for that!
Ok...so I need to update you on the last two weeks! Where do I begin?
I left you last time saying that I was going to Angkor Wat in the morning. Angkor Wat was incredible! In my opinion, it made the Taj Mahal look simplistic! I spent the first half of the day just exploring the temples surrounding Angkor Wat. Some of the temples have giant old-growth trees literally growing into the ruins; their roots reaching over and down the ancient grey stone walls; intertwining their life with ancient wonder. After awhile, you find yourself exploring half-lit stone hallways that often have intricate carvings engraved into their walls that tell ancient tales of war, conquest, & divinity. You find yourself turning a corner only to discover a giant stone face staring back at you. And then there are the stairs! I apparently lied when I said the steps in Nepal where vertical....I discovered the redefinition of vertical steps at Angkor Wat! There are multiple levels within these temples which are interconnected by these steep flights of stairs. Once you've reached the top, you often discover a statue of Buddah whose discovery is foreshadowed by the thick smell of incense that floods the air as you make the final ascent.
Angkor Wat itself was immense. One image that struck me was of the vibrant butterflys that flutter around the ruins. Their vibrant colors contrast sharply with the dull grey of the ruin walls. While I was walking down the vast hallways whose walls contain stories from ancient Hindu texts, the skys began to pour down rain which you could watch through the columns lining the other side of the halls. It's difficult to describe in words and even all the pictures I took don't do it justice. You really are walking through immense elaborate ancient ruins!
The next day, I went and visited the Cambodian Landmine Museum which was started by a former soldier in the Khmer Rouge. He states that he helped lay thousands of landmines when he was with the Khmer Rouge, but now he has made it his life mission to make Cambodia landmine free. The museum contains piles of these weapons that he has deactivated, information on the process, and updates on what his NGO is continuing to do. He and his wife also take care of over 20 children who are victims of landmines. Landmines continue to kill or maim thousands of Cambodians annually, so his work is truly needed. After this, I rented a boat and went to one of the nearby floating villages which consist of houses built on stilts. During the dry season, you see these houses soaring way up in the air on stilts, but in the wet season (right now) you see a village that literally appears to be built upon the water. From there, I took a dugout canoe into the adjacent flooded forest where you are floating in and out of the branches that compose the upper bows and canopy of these trees. It was really fun and unlike anything I'd ever seen before! After that, I stopped by an orphanage outside of Siem Reap and played games with the children there. The next morning, I was on a bus to Phnom Penh which leaves us at my current location! I'm running out of time at the moment, but I will update you shortly on what I've done in Phnom Penh so far. I will be here for another week before heading up to Kratie, Cambodia and then to Vietnam on November 1st! I miss and love you all! Hope you are all doing well! Until later...
~Rachel

From India to Cambodia!

Hello Everyone!
If you follow the news, you've probably noticed a lot of talk about flash flooding in India and earthquakes, tsunamis, and typhoons in Southeast Asia! So, I just wanted to let everyone know that I'm safe and totally excited to be in Cambodia! I arrived in Bangkok, Thailand on October 1st where I experienced a bit of culture shock. Just walking into the huge expanse of the Bangkok International Airport with its evident modernity left me staring in amazement. After spending three months in India, I had forgotten in many ways what it was like to drive down the freeway (paved and equipped with lanes and traffic laws!) and experience silence (no honking!). Bangkok (at least where I ended up staying) seemed to be tourist central with scantily clad westerners, shopping galore, and hip night clubs playing familiar tunes. To be honest, I could hardly wait to be on the road to Cambodia! After experiencing and seeing the things I did in India, I realized that I'm not even close to ready to come back to this sort of Western culture. On a positive note, though, the restaurants and roadside food stands were not only cool but had delicious and fresh food that I was totally jazzed to try! At this point, anything that isn't masala or dahl sounds amazing! My first meal was (of course) pad thai (which was delicious!). I also couldn't stay away from the fresh fruit juice stands.....I had dragonfruit, starfruit, and mango! Yumm! I also found a falafel stand which was (obviously) fantastic! Ok....I apoligize to those who don't share my passion for food...but it really was that good! :)
After a day and a half in Bangkok, I was on the road to Siem Reap, Cambodia! Being in Cambodia is really like a dream. After arriving yesterday afternoon, I immediately set off for a walk through the countryside. I had to wade through the reddish murky waters that composed part of the dirt road I was on which left the Khmer people smiling and laughing! The people here are so friendly and always willing to exchange a big warm smile or laughter. I was greeted by many of the adorable children who seemed excited to practice their English "hello!". I also walked past several volleyball games that I was tempted to join until I realized that they were incredible players! The Cambodian landscape is truly beautiful with brilliant green rice fields that extend to the horizon....walking back at sunset and watching the sun and clouds descend upon the changing shades of green was really a treat!
Today, I scored a complimentary bicycle for the day with my purchase of breakfast (a pineapple pancake with honey). I made it to the end of the block when I realized that the streets in town were completely flooded! So, I got off my bike and waded through knee-deep waters like the rest of the Khmer people! The cars, motercycles, bikes, tuk-tuks, people, etc didn't let the water stop them, so neither did I! The Siem Reap River has completely overflowed its banks because of the typhoon and consequently has turned many of the streets into small tributaries! So, I spent most of the day wading through these streets and exploring the small shops and restaurants that compose the market area. While this flooding has put the rice harvest in jeopardy (not a good thing!), it has increased fishing opportunities! You see people fishing everywhere and ( according to one Khmer man I met on a bicycle the other evening) this has left people very happy! I also saw many children playing in the waters and having a fantastic time! I was amazed to see such a positive outlook on something that would be considered a catastrophe back home. I'm planning on visiting Angkor Wat tomorrow which is considered another wonder of the world (like the Taj Mahal). I'm really looking forward to it and I'll keep you posted on what I see! I love and miss you all!
~Rachel

Varanasi, Agra, & Darjeeling

Alright, so I believe I was telling you all about my entry into Varanasi! Varanasi is one of my favorite places in India that I've visited so far. It is a city of I believe about 2 million situated along the Ganges river. It's amazing that a city of 2 million has begun to feel quite small to me! I guess Kolkata will have that effect on you. Anyway, Varanasi is seemingly composed of a maze of narrow alleyways that wind in and out and create quite the obstacle course for those who aren't locals! It's not just the maze that can be disorienting, but the giant black and white cows (many equipped with massive horns) are the real tricky part. Cows are considered extremely sacred to Hindus and thus this holy city by the Ganges is full of them! I've seen cows with painted horns (usually blue) and one cow was dressed up in a bright orange coat embroidered with shiny mirrors and colorful beads. The first day here, we spent the day exploring the narrow streets and took our first glimpses of the ghats down by the banks of the Ganges where supposedly 60,000 Hindus come down to bathe each day! I was standing on one of these ghats, when a small herd of giant black water buffalos came meandering down the long steep stairway and plunged themselves into the water. Not exactly something you see everyday! It's crazy to see children swimming alongside these giant beasts with absolutely no fear! Actually, the first thing I saw coming in on the train to Varanasi was a small shirtless boy in bright red shorts chasing after one of these giant water buffalos with a stick until it fled into a small pond nearby! And I thought I was brave! Not anymore! The second day, we began at 5:30 AM with a boatride down the Ganges at sunrise. It was really beautiful to watch the sun push its way up into the sky above the quickly moving and murky waters of the Ganges. Grace compares the waters to the way a thick stew looks. I wish I could say that this murkiness is attributed to natural causes, but unfortunately the Ganges is extremely polluted. There have been environmental efforts to clean it up a bit, but there is still much more work that needs to be done. That said, there was no bathing for me! My immune system is strong, but not that strong! :) Nevertheless, it was really beautiful to watch the people bathing. Each person seemed to have their own unique early morning ritual. Some would dunk themselves under the water in a methodical succession while others would cup the water in their hands and slowly bring it up to wash. Children would often just jump in and swim while mothers would quickly submerge their babies and comfort them as they rose to the surface. After our boat ride, we went on a tour of the Hindu temples in Varanasi. The first temple we visited was dedicated to the Hindu god, Sheava, and upon entering you're supposed to jump and ring this large bell suspended from the ceiling. Of course, it took me about 5 jumps and a line of Indians laughing at me until I managed to get a good "clang" out of it! We also visited a monkey temple which is supposed to be the "problem solving" temple. There were monkeys everywhere which was really cool because they are hilarious to watch and the baby monkeys that ride piggy-back style on their mothers are adorable! However, our guide warned us that they're quite aggressive...so we had to keep our distance! By the end of the tour, my forehead looked like an artist's palate; a combination of reds, oranges, and a bit of white! The tour was really informative and I learned a lot about Hinduism that I never knew before. After the tour, we went to a Muslim section of the city that is famous for its silk-production. We had the opportunity to see how they make saris on the looms and the fine detailing that is done on them by hand. We ended our day with an evening boatride down the Ganges. All the boats parked along this one section of the river and before long the Hindu ceremony began. It was really magical to watch with the priests methodically swinging canisters full of smoke and fire. There were also many bells ringing....kind of like a bell symphony...some bells made more of a gonging sound while others sounded so light and dainty as if they were tied to the feet of fairies flying accross the waters. It really felt like I was in another world!
After Varanasi, we embarked on another 15 hour train ride to Agra. We only spent one day in Agra which was totally fine with me! The Taj Mahal was amazing, but due to the massive amount of tourists it attracts, I really felt like I was a walking-ATM machine! You're constantly getting bombarded by shopkeepers with the cacophony of a mixture of "Maam, excuse me, Maam! Postcard? Ruppee, Maam! Marble! Maam! My shop! Excuse Me! Hello! Hello!" Needless to say, it was exhausting! Other than that, though, the Taj Mahal was definately worth the visit! The pictures really don't do it justice! We went at sunset which allows for beautiful golden hues to reflect off the marble dome. Its size is incredible and you really feel like you're a character in a fairy tale as you gaze up at it. So despite feeling like I had "tourist" written accross my forehead, Agra was worth the visit just to see the Taj Mahal.
The next morning, we set off on our 30 hour train ride and 2 1/2 hour jeep ride to Darjeeling which is where I'm at now. Darjeeling is my favorite place in India! It is absolutely beautiful. It's a town built into the hillside and surrounded by layers of hills, mountains, and finally the majestic Himalaya peaks. It's also surrounded by more than 80 tea plantations that supply 1/4 of India's tea! Let me just say that Darjeeling tea is also delicious...had some this morning! The guesthouse we're staying at literally feels like you're teetering on the edge of the world and we have an amazing view from our window! I watched the sunrise this morning which was nothing short of spectacular! I watched the tiny lights that dotted the hillsides fade with the coming sunlight and the brilliant colors that emerged with the dawn and illuminated the majestic snow-capped peaks. It was so quiet that you could hear the flapping of bird's wings as they soared on the early-morning air currents...almost like fish gliding effortlessly through the sea. I also caught a glimpse of the third highest mountain in the world from a rooftop later in the morning. Breathtaking! Yesterday, Grace and I visited the Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Center with some friends we met from France, Greece, and Germany. Three of them had been working at Missions of Charity in Kolkata...small world! Anyway, the refugee center was really serene and beautiful. We were able to learn a little bit more about the center and the kind of work they do. Also, we had the opportunity to visit the wool-spinning and carpet weaving facilities. It was really inspiring to see these traditions and art-forms kept alive by these beautiful people who unfortunately have been dislocated from their homes unjustly. Their work is incredibly intricate and it's a real treat to get to watch them create it with adept hands and huge smiles that illuminate their wrinkled and warm faces. We meandered down a wandering road that led us through tea plantations, forests, and other villages built further down the hillside. Incredible people and a majestically beautiful and serene place....what more can you ask for? I really am cherishing my last days in India and feel very blessed by God to get to experience such splendor and serenity. That's all I have to report at the moment...but I'll keep you posted on my other ventures in Darjeeling and my transition to Southeast Asia. Please keep me in your thoughts and prayers as I begin this next chapter in my journey. Love and peace to you all....

A Beginning....

I feel like it has been ages since I last wrote! So much has been happening in such a short period of time and my access to internet cafes has been limited! So, I'll do my best to catch you up as much as possible! Since my last entry, I returned to Kolkata briefly and then embarked on my trip to Varanasi, Agra, and Darjeeling (my current location!). Varanasi was one of my favorite places in India I've been to so far. From Kolkata, it took us 15 hours by train to arrive in Varanasi. Upon arriving, Grace was extremely sick and a massive cow tried to gore me a couple of times while I was chasing our auto-rickshaw driver down a series of narrow alleyways that led to our prospective guesthouse! Ok....I might be making it sound a little more dramatic than it was in actuality....but not by much! :) We immediately called the doctor who suspected that she had an amoeba in her colon! After a few tests, this was confirmed and she got some medications to kill them! She's doing much better now by the way! Ok...so I just found out that the internet cafe I'm at closes in 5 min! So, I'll try to write the full story tomorrow if time allows! :) Love and miss you all! ~Rachel

Learning in Pondicherry

Hello Everybody! I have exactly three more days in Pondicherry! We'll be spending two days in Chennai and then flying back to Kolkata before hopping on the overnight train to Varanasi on Sept 18th! Pondicherry has been a great place to unwind and I've been learning a lot as well. I've spent the past week organizing activities for children in a nearby village that this organization works with. There are usually about 15 children who come in the afternoons and they are not only incredibly cute, but are full of bright-eyed curiousity, full-blown enthusiasm, and unrelenting energy! Of course, I do have a few shy ones in my group, but it doesn't take long before they're laughing hysterically and joining in the fun. I've been teaching them songs, games (red light green light, hot potato, bubblegum bubblegum, man on mars, duck duck goose, etc), and reading them stories! It has been so much fun getting to play, dance, and sing with them. I definately realized how much I miss working with children...they really have such a light and sense of hope about them! On the last day, I brought poster paper and markers and had them each draw whatever they wanted. At the very end, we all got in a circle and each child stood up and shared with everyone what they had drawn. Many children drew their homes and its surroundings (flowers, birds, sun, clouds, flag, car) while a few children drew their school or some other kind of animal (i.e. elephant). They were amazing artists and I could tell they were really proud of what they had created.
Speaking of elephants, I saw my first elephant in India! There is this elephant that represents one of the Hindu gods (Ganesh) that mostly hangs out in the temple for this god, but can also be seen wandering the streets of Pondicherry! I got to touch its trunk and was amazed by its magnificence and beauty! I've also been learning a lot during my time here. I've had the opportunity to learn a lot about the rural development projects that the organization is involved with and a little bit about what kind of thinking must go into these projects and what kinds of considerations must be made. One day, I got to go on a tour with one of the architects for this project, Trupti. She introduced us to the concept of combining modern technology and ecologically friendly designs and materials with the limited resources and challenges that rural areas often present with. We got to see one of the beautiful vaulted buildings that she designed and built with the help of the villagers themselves. It was a truly beautiful design and it was amazing how waste and non-renuable resources were significantly minimized through simple innovative ideas and procedures. I also got to see a presentation on the language of Sanskrit which is considered by many to be a 'dead' language in India. This is tragic because it is said that the soul of India is contained within this language and the expression it allows. This organization, however, is incorporating the teaching of Sanskrit into its educational programs and children are now beginning to speak it once again! Really interesting and inspiring stuff! At this presentation, I got to meet Ron and Brenda who both work at the University of Oregon....small world right? Other than that, I've just been exploring Pondicherry on my bicycle and have even become used to "Indian traffic"! When I come back to Eugene, I think it will take me awhile to forget that I don't have to drive on the left hand side of the road and dodge endless motercycles, cars, buses, bikes, people, auto rickshaws, cows, etc!!!! I've also been trying South Indian food which is delicious but spicy! Alright, I'm off to do some more exploring.....!!!

Down By the Sea.....

Hello Everyone! I'm officially in Pondicherry! Pondicherry is a quaint little town situated alongside the Indian Ocean which is absolutely beautiful. Unfortunately, there's really no beach to speak of and the currents are too strong for safe swimming. But, it's still exhilerating to watch the waves as they crash against the rocky coastline. It's very hot in Pondicherry and the sun seems to be always shining which is nice, but sometimes makes it almost unbearable to be outside during th day. It's perfect in the mornings and evenings though. Grace and I have made it a habit to go down to the sea (as everyone calls it) around twilight. Once there, we munch on full ears of corn that have been cooked over coals and sprinkled with lime juice and curry...delicious! There's also this place called 'Le Cafe' that has open-air seating right on the coast. So, sometimes we go there for dinner or a cup of tea and watch the waves come in. The past couple of nights, there have been thunderstorms on the eastern horizon. We literally sit on the rocks that line the coast watching the distant lights of ships glow against the blackness of the sea at night as well as the lightning bolts that flash against the horizon. It's really beautiful and very relaxing which is nice after spending two months in the midst of the chaos of Kolkata.
I went out to the villages today with a Chitra, a woman who works for the Sri Aurobindo Society doing community development and educational projects. They work with a total of seven surrounding villages and we visited two today. She showed me some of the projects they have been working on which were really impressive. Where there used to be simple mud and grass huts that would completely flood during the rainy season, now stand new but still simple homes that have solar panels so that the families can have light during the evening. Also,this helps the children complete their studies. They have also built new school buildings and worked with the villagers to make education possible for the children living there. Much of what they do is based upon the model of empowerment, partnership, and sustainability. It's amazing to see how the people living in these villages have really responded towards bettering their community once given the opportunity. During our time here, Grace and I will be working with the village children; coordinating activities for them in the afternoons. We're going to observe tomorrow morning and then we'll be on our own! I'm really excited to get to work with them and I'll let you know how it goes! :) Until later....
~Rachel

Off to Pondicherry!

Hello Everyone! I only have about 20 minates to write this posting, but I thought I should let you all know that I'm flying to Pondicherry in about 5 hours! My last day at Missions of Charity was yesterday which went really well. It began at breakfast at the Mother House where I had to stand in front of all the other volunteers while they sang me a goodbye song. Luckily, I had a friend from the Netherlands that I met here whose last day was the same day...so I wasn't alone! Then, it was my final busride to Shanti Dan where I spent my time with all the women I've come to know. It was difficult to explain to them that I was leaving considering that I speak English and most of them speak Bengali, but through a series of handmotions and face expressions, I think I conveyed the message. There were a lot of hugs, smiles, songs, and laughter. All in all, it was a wonderful day and I know that I'll miss these women immensely. They truly have captured a piece of my heart.
Over the past week, I've been trying to do all the things in Kolkata that I've wanted to do. I played frisbee in this massive park with horses and a great view of the Victoria Memorial. It was organized by this guy from Canada who we met at the Mother House and by the end we had quite a gathering of people from all over the world, local Indian people, and even a group of children who postponed their soccer game for frisbee! It was really fun and it felt good to get some excercise! I also went to see the Botanical Gardens which are situated along the Hoogley River that runs through Kolkata. They are immense gardens that contain this 250 year old Banyan tree that has the second largest canopy in the world! It was one of the most beautiful things I've seen in India thus far. You really felt like you were in the middle of Jurassic Park...without the scary raptors of course! :) The gardens were also a really nice break from the chaotic noise of the city. Actually, we almost didn't get to go because there was this giant gathering of about 1 million people for some sort of political rally. All I know, is that Grace and I walked down to Park street which is where we usually can catch a taxi and there were people for as far as you could see in both directions and many bright red communist flags flapping in the wind. Politics are conducted a little bit differently here!
I also got the opportunity in the past week to visit a leperosy colony that is run by Missions of Charity. It was truly an inspiring experience that I feel fortunate to have had. Our trip began with an educational talk about the disease itself, the rehabilitative work that the center does, and the differing social stigmas that exist in India towards those who have the disease. We then got to tour the facilities and meet the patients. Once the patients have undergone treatment, the center offers them employment in tailoring, gardening, carpentry, etc. We got to see their work on the looms which was really impressive. Apparently, the make most of the sheets and clothing that are used at the various centers that Missions of Charity has throughout the city. They also make all of the saris that the sisters wear! The center also provides free education for the patient's children who are often denied access because they are "a daughter or son of a leper". The social stigmas in India often eliminate these people's chances for self-sufficiency and often strip them of their sense of dignity. Mother Teresa's goal when creating this center was to return this sense of dignity and provide viable opportunities for them and their children to do so. Really amazing work!
Now, I'm headed off to Pondicherry which I'm really excited about. I'm not sure what my internet access will look like at this point, but I'll try to keep you posted on how that experience is going. I love and miss you all. Until later.... :)

thoughts as time races by...

Wow! Time seems to be racing by at the moment. I feel like it moves past me with a combination of sights, hues, sounds, scents, memories, thoughts, hopes, and experiences. When I embarked on this journey, I thought that six months would feel like an eternity. However, I'm beginning to realize that I'll be on my way home before I know it;trying to frantically but methodically make sense of everything I've experienced while preparing for and looking forward to Christmas in the United States. I think these thoughts are coming to me because of my realization that I only have 8 days left in Kolkata! On September 1st, my friend Grace and I will be flying to Pondicherry in Southern India to volunteer our time at the Sri Aurobindo Society, an ashram that works on multiple community development, educational, and sustainable agriculture projects. I was referred to this organization by one of my former professors who is working on an international exchange program with their organization and the University of Oregon. I'm really looking forward to this experience and will be their until the 17th of September. While I'm looking forward to experiencing another part of India as well as a change of pace from the big city, I know that I'm going to miss the women at Shanti Dan whom I've come to know. I even know that I'll miss Kolkata in part; the sights, sounds, places, and people I've become accustomed to and built an affinity for. I'm beginning to realize, though, that this transition represents one of many chapters that this journey contains. Each chapter containing important lessons and experiences that will shape and change the way in which I see the world and my purpose in it. Therefore, change I must embrace.
Upon leaving Pondicherry, Grace and I plan to make our way to Darjeeling, Varanasi, & Agra. Darjeeling is situated on India's northern border and is surrounded by supposedly breathtaking views of the Himalaya Mountains. This is particularly exciting because the monsoons are supposed to lift from the area in September; allowing the views to which it gains it's fame. Varanasi is one of the holiest places for Hindus and many come to this city along the Ganges River to die. Finally, Agra is home to the Taj Mahal. So, there you have it, my tentative outline for the rest of my time here in India! On October 1st, I'll be flying to Bangkok, Thailand to begin yet another chapter.
I've been doing a lot of reflection lately on my time spent here in Kolkata. There have been many blessings coupled with many hardships. I wouldn't say many hardships for myself necessarily. Rather, I would say that I have bore witness to many hardships both with my ears and my eyes. I am beginning to really become aware of the living dichotomy that is Kolkata. For instance, on my walk from my hotel to the Mother House in the morning, I will often pass men 'shooting up' heroin and emaciated babies sleeping next to their mothers on the sidewalk littered with plastic rubbish. That same afternoon, I might find myself in a four level shopping mall watching affluent Indians take part in the fruits of effective Commercialism. I may speak with a rickshaw driver who comes to Kolkata in order to earn enough money to send back to his family or a woman at Shanti Dan who has lost her father to tuberculosis. I may also speak with seemingly well-off college students at Calcutta University; discussing philosophy and sipping espresso drowned in milk with a heaping scoop of sugar. This dichotomy is challenging. Both are parts of reality; but one reality seems acceptable and another inexcusable. I know that varying aspects of these realities exist in the United States as well, but their existance seems to be highlighted or perhaps more visible here in Kolkata.
I'm out of time at the moment, but I will write more on these reflections soon. Hope you are all well and my love goes out to each and every one of you.

Happy Independence Day India!

I dont' have long to write at the moment, but I thought I'd let you all know that India is celebrating it's independence from British rule today, August 15th! It's been fun to see how the city streets have changed in preparation for this holiday. There have been giant stages erected seemingly overnight with periodic performances and a constant stream of music. There are also tiny indian flags that are hung above the streets by the hundreds. Walking to the bus stop from Shanti Dan this morning, I was struck by all of the intermingling colors and sounds....a coming together of sorts for each person celebrating in their own way. I'm curious to see what sort of festivities will be held this evening!
Today, everyone seems to be in good spirits and the roads are relatively empty because of the holiday....a nice break for sure! A little boy came up to me on the street today and shared his umbrella with me during one of the periodic downpours this time of year...his name is Saheb and his kindness really stood out...alright...that's all I have time for at the moment...but I'll write more soon....

New Home, Market Adventure, & Shanti Dan

Hello All! As I wrote before, I'm back to life in the city. The one differance is that my friend Grace and I have moved to a new hotel. I'm now staying at the Afridi International Guesthouse which is a hotel intended for longterm volunteers. Our room is really amazing because it has really high ceilings with four gigantic windows that allow great airflow ( a must in this climate!). It is still a simple room with chipping pink walls and a couple of dusty desks, but the natural light and high ceilings make it feel like heaven. Grace has hung some paper lanterns that she got in Nepal and of course they are mixed in with our clotheslines which are consistently adorned with drying laundry. In the evening, we light candles that we purchased at the market and enjoy the cool breezes as we read, write, stretch, and listen to the sounds of the city as it begins to slow its frantic pace. I try to get to bed somewhat early because every morning I'm awoken to the sound of the Muslim call to prayer that resonates throughout the city at 4:30 AM!
The other perk about our new hotel, is that it has a kitchen! By a kitchen, I mean a small fridge and two burners with a few random pots and cooking utensils. However simple, I was ecstatic about the idea of cooking and set off for New Market. I weaved my way through the maze of the market and came away with items such as curry, almonds, darjeeling tea, whole wheat pasta (a miracle to find!), lentils, garbanzo beans, bell peppers, zucchini, garlic, ginger, carrots, onions, potatoes, apples, bananas, etc.! My cooking extravaganza starts tonight and I'm really excited about using the curry....it smells AMAZING! Along the way, I stopped and chatted with many of the shop owners. One man was telling me that this market has been in existance for 100 years. He said that his shop began with his grandfather and has been passed from generation to generation ever since. His son will take over the shop after him. He was very friendly and told me all about the upcoming festivals, the pace of life in India, and the people he's met over the years. When I told him I was from the United States, he questioned me saying, "Both your father and mother were born there?" When I said "yes", he explained that he was really surprised that I was from the U.S. because to him I looked Swedish! What???!! As funny as that sounds, this sort of thing happens to me all the time here. Just the other day, a doctor I met from Japan asked me where I was from and she was shocked to hear that I was from the U.S. She said that she assumed I was from France or Spain! :)
On another note, returning to work with the women at Shanti Dan has been incredible. My first day back after my trip to Nepal, many of the women that I've been building relationships with came up to me with huge smiles and warm greetings. Veronica, a beautiful old woman who I've spent much time sitting with, took my head in her hands and kissed both of my cheeks and forehead. She also sang a beautiful song in Hindi to me. Louise, a sweet and genuine woman just a few years older than I, said, "Rachel, you're back!" and insisted that I sit with her while she filled me in on the past week's events. We've been teaching each other songs and dancing when a catchy tune comes on the radio. One of the women's favorite Hindi songs has the booming chorus, "I am a disco dancer!" It's really hilarious! To be honest, though, it's a blast to dance to! :) Needless to say, I'm loving the work I'm doing here and will be sad when I have to say goodbye to these precious women. I don't have to think about that quite yet, though. Right now, I'm trying to focus on soaking up as much of Kolkata as possible until my journey takes me elsewhere....

Kolkata: Home Sweet Home!?

I wanted to let everybody know that I made it back to Kolkata safe and sound. The journey back was a little crazy with an overnight bus, horse drawn carriage ride at 6:00 AM, and subsequent 17 hour train ride!!! The bus had been slightly overbooked and so naturally they requested that the seven of us cram into the back seat of the bus. I've never really considered myself prone to claustrophobia before...but hey....there's a first time for everything! I didn't really sleep because every time I managed to doze off, we would hit a pothole and my head would bang against the metal bar going accross the window! Ouch! Anyway, after awhile I gave up on the sleeping idea and listened to some 'chill' music while staring at the almost full moon that was lighting up the black night sky. It struck me that I was staring at the same moon that my friends and family back home were probably gazing up at. This realization reminded me that the world is amazing vast and yet so interconnected and 'small' at the same time.
The team I've been traveling with went home two days ago which has been a big change for me. I still have my friend, Grace, which is an amazing gift, but it's hard to have them gone. We were all really close which was evident to even those outside our group. We had several people who we met along the way who commented on the sense of love and closeness that shone through our group. I credit that firstly to God who we all love and desire to know more and secondly to the character of each and every member of the team that I had the privilege of knowing and serving with. Despite this sense of loss, though, I kind of feel like their departure has marked a new stage of my journey. Walking down the streets of Kolkata with Grace, I realized that Kolkata is beginning to feel like home in a way. I wouldn't call it 'sweet', but it is definately where I'm supposed to be in life right now which feels really good. I'm running out of time at the moment, but I will write more later.......much love to you all....

Enjoying Magic and Cool Air

Wow! If there is one word that describes Nepal in my mind, it is 'magical'. I think that it might be my favorite place on earth at the moment. Before I get ahead of myself though, I'll start from the beginning of my journey from India to Nepal. It all began with a 17 hour train ride from Kolkata to the Nepali border. While that is an intense amount of time to spend on a train, I really enjoyed watching the bustle of the city fade to green fields and small villages. Traveling by land really allows one the opportunity to see a fuller picture of the country one is passing through and the time and space to take it all in. Once we arrived at the Nepali border, we took horsedrawn carriages to Indian immigration, Nepali immigration, and finally to a landrover station. After spending 30 minates negotiating a price for the ride from the border to Kathmandu, we were off! Seven hours lapsed and we found ourselves in Kathmandu at twilight. However, those seven hours were some of the most terrifying and ruggedly beautiful hours of my life! We began our drive enjoying the fresh air and cool breezes as we followed a fast-moving river that cut through the lush mountain valley. As we began to climb up into the massive foothills of the Himalayas, the views were spectacular and truly breathtaking! The road was really not much wider than the land rover we were traveling in and was filled with twists and turns that composed seemingly neverending switchbacks up into the mountains. Every time we took a turn, the driver honked his horn incessantly as to avoid a collision around the blind corners that were more of the rule than the exception. I think it was probably the most precarious drive of my life, but also the most beautiful. It was also a good lesson in prayer and conquering my fear of heights! :)
When we awoke the next morning, we were off to explore the city of Kathmandu. We stopped in the Pumpernickel Bakery for some breakfast which was amazing! Fresh brown bread with peanut butter, whole wheat porridge, and darjeeling tea! Yumm! The food compared to Kampala is amazingly fresh and delicious which reminds me that I'm on vacation. I spent the rest of the day window shopping which was fun, but the tourist-geared streets annoy me after awhile. The next day, we hopped on a bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara which is a smaller town surrounded by mountains and containing a beautiful 5 km long lake. On the bus ride there, I met this girl named Michelle from England who has traveled accross Spain, Germany, Poland, Russia, China, Malaysia, Tibet, and now Nepal over the past 6 months. She has done all of this travelling over land because she doesn't believe in flying for environmental reasons which I had some serious admiration for. She's done a lot of work in environmentalism like participating in community education programs focused on sustainable and organic gardening and fixing up old bicycles in hopes of bringing some of the existing cars off the road. When I told her that I've never owned a car and ride my bike instead, she said, "Wow! That's impressive, especially considering you're an American!" She's headed off to Northern India in a week in hopes of taking classes to become a yoga instructer. By the time we reached Pokhara, she was part of the team and hung out with us until we left for our trek the following day. It's so awesome to get to meet so many amazing people along the way...I think it's one of my favorite aspects of traveling.
Once we arrived in Pokhara, we grabbed some lunch at an organic cafe that was claiming to be a German bakery. I had some cous-cous with veggies and tomato sauce with a delicious cup of coffee (my first cup this entire trip!). Needless to say, it was perfect! Gracie, Brian, and I were then off in search of bikes to rent. Although the bikes were nothing to speak of, the ride was beautiful and exhilerating. I don't really know how to explain how beautiful biking along a Nepali lake at twilight is! In the middle of our ride, we parked our bikes along the shore and dove in! The water was perfect...warm but refreshing and it felt so good to swim after spending a month in the heat and humidity of Kolkata! That night, we grabbed some Nepali food which I'm in love with and went to bed early as we were planning an early morning swim. We woke the next morning at 5:30 AM and were swimming by 6:00 AM. After a dip in the cool water and the solace of the dawn, we all went to breakfast and said our goodbyes to our new friend, Michelle.
We hopped on a bus to Birethanti and were there in a couple of hours. We devoured samosas and bananas at this little village and were off on our trek into the Nepali foothills. The hike began with a flat and meandering path along a rushing river, terraced gardens adorning the hillsides, and small villages filled with ducklings, chicks, and children enthusiastically greeting us with 'namaste'. The trail was often half land half creek and it was at these moments that I thanked God for Chacos! As I hiked, I couldn't get over the incredible beauty that surrounded me. When I said that Nepal is magical, part of what I meant by that is that the terrain is such that if one were to see a fairy flitting about or a dragon cutting accross the sky, I don't know if one would feel any surprise. I kind of felt like I had been transported into the Hobbit or some other fairytale. Nepal's landscape also reminded me of a painter who is faintly etching bright but subtle details onto a vast and rich canvas. It feels like humanity has just barely traced its mark on the land here which adds to its magic and mystery.
The first night, our hiking ended at this tiny mountain village facing three cascading waterfalls and the valley below. The river we had walked alongside before looked like a small creek from this height. We met a young boy here who said that we could pitch our tents on some land below his house. When his mom found out, however, she insisted that we camp in front of their house as that other piece of land tends to flood when it rains. We pitched our tents and rushed off to play with probably 40 village children who were eagerly watching us with curiosity. We played tag, ring around the rosy, london bridges, duck duck goose (guku guku bakra (duck duck goat in their language)), and the rain game for hours! Brian and some of the village boys took sticks and began drumming on this large plastic vat and the dance party and spinning games began. These children ranged in age from probably about 3 to 9 and were so amazing! Some were bold, their eyes filled with curiousity and eager anticipation. Others were shy, timid, and cautious. Their shyness was often turned into fits of giggling with a quick tickle however. After hours of playing, we returned to our tents exhausted but enthused with energy from these incredible children. The woman whose home we were camped in front of came out and offered to cook us dinner because she said, " The seven of you, I really like!" We feasted that night on spaghetti, rice, dhal, and curried vegetables!
The next morning we woke up early and discovered after some tea and porridge that some children and adults from the village were gathered seeking our assistance with their wounds. Most of the adult's wounds were from the steep rock steps that they ascend and descend on a daily basis. Fortunately, we all have first aide kits and were able to disinfect and bandage their wounds to the best of our ability. I can't imagine what it must be like living way up in these hills and needing medical attention. My guess is that most of these needs go without attention in most cases.
We were then off on our second day of trekking which would prove to be an incredibly challenging experience. We literally climbed these almost vertical cobblestone steps for about 6 hours! As if this weren't challenging enough, I was carrying about a 40-50 pound pack! Back home, I 'm a really active and athletic person, but this was honestly one of the hardest things I have ever done. We trekked accross bridges crossing rushing waterfalls, over landslide areas that were a bit nerve-racking, and through villages that were always friendly and hospitable. Towards the end of the day, we reached a sign that read that we wouldn't see any villages for the next two hours. We headed into the Nepali jungle and soon after the monsoon rains hit! The trails transformed into creeks and waterfalls and it was at this point that we discovered the leeches!!!! Leeches before this point had always been a disturbing creature found in storybooks and national geographic. However, now I found myself shouting through the downpour for our team to put on socks and long pants and have their lighters ready. Poor Grace had probably 8 leeches on her feet when we discovered them and I had to calm her and hold her still while Brian ripped them off! We spent the next 2 hours cruising through the jungle and up neverending vertical steps. Once we reached the top, we spotted a village and everyone shrieked with joy. We crawled into this room warmed with a woodstove and hopped into a 'warm shower' which consisted of a bucket of water and a ladle. We finished dealing with the leeches which left most people's shoes, socks, and plants covered in blood! Thankfully, I only think I had one leech. I never saw it...only the bloody mark on my back. Maybe they don't like my blood type... I don't know....all I know was that I was very lucky compared to the rest of my team. I jokingly told them that I didn't get any because God knew I couldn't handle it! Ha! Probably true!
The rest of the night was quite pleasant though. The experience, although extremely challenging, really brought our team together and we spent the evening huddled around the fire in this hotel tucked away in the Nepali mountain jungle. We exchanged massages, feasted on amazing food, and shared our life stories. We spent the next two days making our descent and we arrived safely in Pokhara yesterday and Kathmandu today! We all can barely walk we are so sore, but we all agree it was an amazing experience worth all the pain and joy that went into it. Alright, I'm off to join my team for a dinner in Kathmandu...it's one of our last as most of my team is flying home on August 6th. I hope you are all doing well....I love and miss you all.......

Off to Nepal!

Hello Again! I just wanted to let everyone following this blog know that I'll be headed for Nepal tomorrow afternoon. I'm not sure if I'll have much access to the internet, so it may be awhile before I write again. I'll return to Kolkata on August 5th, but who knows maybe I'll have some time to escape to an internet cafe while I'm there. :) I'm really excited for a break from the hustle and bustle of the city and I hear Nepal is a bit cooler than Kolkata which is always a perk! Right now, our travel plans are still very flexible and up in the air. But, we definately want to do some hiking as the views of the Himalayas are supposed to be breathtaking.
Today has been a good day so far. After breakfast at Mother House, it was announced that another strike is underway in the city which means that all buses and taxis aren't running! I was disappointed because that means I can't go to Shanti Dan because I have to get there by bus. However, one of my friends offered to take me to Shishu Bavan which is a home for children with mental and physical disabilities. It was a great opporutunity to see firsthand some of the other work that Missions of Charity does. The children were adorable, but it was challenging for me to see that many of these children have had their childhood stripped away from them at such an early age. Many of the children seemed to not know how to play. Many of the children would hoard toys in piles rather than play with them. After much time and patience, I was able to engage a few of the children with some building blocks, but it definately took a lot of effort. I know that the children are in a much better situation than they would be if left on the streets, but it is definately challenging at times when I think about the standards of practice I've been taught in the United States and the realities that are present here. It presents an interesting ethical dilemma that I think will challenge me throughout my journey.
Alright, I'm off to go pick up our team's passport photos for our Nepal visas! Another reason I'm excited for this trip is to spend some time with my team before they return to the U.S. on August 6th. I know it's going to feel weird going from traveling with eight to traveling with two. I'm really thankful that Grace will be with me for the remainder of my time in India. It's nice to have someone else there to reflect with. I'm off, but I'll try to keep you guys posted on my ventures in Nepal!

Solar Eclipse

Yesterday was a unique and event-filled day! I woke up at 4:30 AM, took a much-needed shower, and scampered to the roof of my hotel to catch a view of the solar eclipse that I've been hearing rumors of ever since I got here. I guess this sort of eclipse only happens once every 100 years or so. Needless to say, I chose the right time to come to India! The Kolkata skies are always filled with clouds that seem to be on some sort of mission as they race accross the sky. Consequently, the eclipse was often shrouded by these clouds, but I definately still caught a glimpse of the sun looking more like a sliver of the moon than the golden ball I'm used to seeing.
At 6:30 AM, we gathered all of our duffle bags full of supplies to be donated and hired two rickshaws to carry them to Mother House which is where all of the volunteers meet for breakfast and announcements before heading off for work. The sisters there were so thankful for all of the supplies we brought and I have no doubt that they will be put to good use. Breakfast is provided for all volunteers every morning and it consists of bread, bananas, and chai. After breakfast, a prayer is said and we sing a song together. Then, anouncements are made and the doors are opened and we all leave in mass exodus to catch our respective buses.
I love working at Shanti Dan more and more each time I go. One woman I work with always wants to borrow my pen and paper and every day she writes a page in Bengali for me. I go through a bottle of nail polish every day because there are so many women who want me to paint their nails. Every day the music is turned on around 10:00 am and I often spend some time dancing with the women. The women love to dance and they also like to laugh at me when I join in! One of the women came up to me after dancing and said, "Sister, you are very sweet. I will miss you when you are gone!" I knew the feeling was mutual...working with these women has truly been eye-opening and inspiring.
After our shift was over, I went out for Chinese food with Clara & Theresa (both from Spain) and Allison (from L.A.). Allison is staying in the home of an Indian woman who rents out a room in her home to volunteers. She offered to take us shopping for suits (a typical outfit worn by Indian women here) because she knows how the process works and what things should REALLY cost!!! When we got to her home, she made us chai and cookies and was so excited to go shopping with us. She even put on her jeans for the occasion which she was really excited about! We then went to pick up her friend who is apparently an expert on saris. She showed us her home which was no bigger than a closet (i'm not exagerating)! She sleeps here with her two daughters and son. Her husband is deceased, but when he was alive he used to sleep on a cot just outside the door. The woman who was taking us shopping kept saying, "My friend is very poor, but she has a big heart!" She also whispered... "she's a Christian too." I had noticed that she had a picture of Jesus up on the wall. In the State of West Bengal, this is significant because Christians compose less than 2% of the population. We then spent the next couple of hours shopping which was quite the process of going from shop to shop, examining materials, bartering, and learning when to walk away!
Upon returning to my hotel, I was needing some rest and a bite to eat. So, my friend Grace and I escaped to the Spanish cafe where I had a salad, fresh mango juice, and half of a cinnamon roll. The electricity went out, but everyone continued to hang out in the dark like it was completely normal. One of the girls from my team is leaving early because she has to be back for her brother's wedding, so we went to the bakery to get a going away cake. But, when we got there, there were a bunch of men outside with communist flags who were chanting and seemingly blocking the entrance. Apparently, the bakery owner had fired six workers and the protesters were demanding that he rehire them. But, our friend Brian snuck in anyway and escaped safely with a chocolate cake in tow! We devoured the cake on the roof of our hotel (which honestly was really not that great!). It was still a fun celebration though! If you can't tell by my writing, I'm very tired at the moment, so I think I'm going to go get some rest! Until later....

Kolkata Skies and City Buses!

I thank God that I'm feeling 100% better! After laying for three days in my dark, intensely hot, and painfully humid room, I was ready for a change of pace! Needless to say, I havn't spent much time in my room lately and have been eating with a voracious appetite....trying to gain back the weight I lost while being sick! My first day better, I journeyed down Park St to the Park Street Cemetery which offers a brief glimpse into India's colonial past. It's a beautiful place with giant shade trees and a tranquility that is often lost in this city of 15 million people. The tombs are marked not with mere gravestones, but rather structures that are more like towers with elaborate epitaphs. It is a British cemetary that dates back to the 1800's and one will see many references to the British East India Company. A lot of the tombs were dedicated to young women who I assume by the heartfelt poems enscripted on the front died in childbirth. Some were older, though, and causes of death ranged from illness to a ship that sunk in the Ganges river. It was definately worth the visit if only for the moment of solitude!
Later that evening, I perched in the hammock on the roof of my hotel and watched the clouds race accross the sky. So, I have to say that I've never seen a sky more full of life than in Kolkata. At twilight, one can watch the thick but whispy white clouds engulfing the empty sky which is fading from blue to grey to black. At twilight, there is a golden glow that illuminates the city and the crows and sparrows take turns completing their circuits accross the sky...or so it seems. Also, just after it gets dark, you will hear an almost operetic voice coming from the street. The first few nights, I assumed it was a recording, but one night I peaked out onto the street out of curiousity and realized that this beautiful enchanting sound was coming from a slight Indian man led by his wife. The man is blind and his wife leads him around every evening while he sings for money.
A note about city buses. So, the strike I mentioned previously ended after 12 hours and the city is back to normal at the moment. So, my commute to Shanti Dan consists of buses, auto rickshaws, and taxis. The bus is absolutely crazy. You wait at an unmarked bus-stop...looking for the bus that bears the number you're looking for. Then, you leep on hoping that there's room for you...there usually is...just barely. You cling on to any part of the bus you can get your hands on and you literally can't move because there are bodies all around you! There are no marked bus-stops...the toll-collector just beats on the bus and yells when there are people who want to get off. I've learned to take note of landmarks so I know where to get off! You then have to leap off the bus before it starts moving again..they don't always wait ...so you have to be on your toes!Once we get to our "stop", we have to take an auto rickshaw...a covered moterized scooter thing that seats 6 people. The trick, however, is that the driver won't move until there are 6 passengers! So, luckily I travel with the other volunteers! Otherwise, I may be sitting there for awhile!
Alright, I've run out of time for the moment....I'm off to plan my trip to Nepal at the end of this month!

What I Call "Initiation"...

So, I feel like everyone traveling (especially in the developing world) has to get sick at some point. I think of it as one's initiation to a new climate, new virus and germ world, new standards of cleanliness, etc. That said, my initiation has begun! I've spent the last 2 1/2 days laying in bed for the most part. I think I must have some type of flu because I have a fever, achiness everywhere, dizziness, and weakness! Lots of fun! I managed to get some laundry done yesterday, but I had to lie down every few min. to fight off the nausea and dizziness. It was nice though because the day I was most sick was Thursday and that is our day off from working. I'm feeling better now though. I managed to eat something and so far that is going well. My fever has also decreased from 101 to 99...so that's progress.
While I've been sick, apparently a 12 hour bandh (strike) has been called in the city of Kolkata. Apparently, one of the political leaders did not win at the polls and so a huge group of people have called this strike. Yesterday, 16 city buses were burned and a farmer was killed. Apparently, the farmer got caught between the mob and the police. The police claim that he had a heart attack, but I have some serious doubts about that. So, today all buses, trains, and subways aren't running. Many businesses are closed today as well. So, many volunteers couldn't work at the homes because they have to take buses to get there. So, maybe it's a good time to get sick after all! I asked the hotel owner if these strikes happen often and he said that they do. While I often don't agree with the politics in the United States, it did make me thankful that for the most part we have a relatively stable and peaceful political environment.
Alright, I think I'm going to try and get some more rest. Love and miss you all!

Shanti Dan and Monsoon Rains

Hello! Wow, again it seems that so much has happened since I last wrote. I couldn't possibly record it all, but I'll try to give you a few highlights! Don't worry, I'm journaling like a maniac! I've worked at Shanti Dan for 5 days now and am loving it more and more! I've started building realationships with the women and getting a better sense of what to do with them. Today, I painted fingernails with some polish I found at the market for 10 rupees (20 cents U.S), gave foot and hand massages with lotion (many of the women have extremely dry skin from the constant laundering), helped hang and fold laundry, and sang songs with them! Many of the women truly have beautiful hearts and really are in need of so much love. I found out that the women that are there are women who were deserted on the streets by their families who didn't want to care for them. People with mental disabilities are extremely vulnerable in this society and are largely left to fend for themselves and many suffer exploitation. Missionaries of Charity goes out to the streets daily looking for those who are in this kind of dire need. If they are willing to come, they are admitted to the homes. So, the work that Missionaries of Charity does is really incredible.
I am also loving the people I'm working with at this home. Right now, we have people from Spain (lots!), France, Germany, Japan, Los Angelos, and Eugene (me). I've mainly been hanging out with the girl from Japan (Jun Ko (spelling??)) and the girls from Spain. They are all so nice and welcoming and they think my accent is "so cute...so american" they say! I tell them I think their accents are cute and they just laugh at me and say "what accent?" Jun Ko is awesome. She is currently on a world tour and has traveled throughout Southeast Asia & India and will be continuing her travels to South Africa and South America! Wow! I thought I liked to travel! I went to lunch with the Spanish girls and they showed me this awesome Spanish cafe where they have the most amazing pineapple and mango juice with the best cinnamon rolls I think I have ever had (sorry sweet life!). The cafe is really cool...it has a room full of seated cushions and air conditioning! I kind of feel like I am in Costa Rica rather than India when I go though because everyone is speaking Spanish (very quickly I might add!) I tried to explain to the Spanish girls that I'm a vegan and they said they have never heard of such a thing and gave me a strict lecture about my protein needs! Apparently, they don't have vegans in Spain! They said that if I ever went to Spain though that I could stay with them....so my trip to Spain is in the works! :)
I think the monsoon rains have arrived. It was raining in torrents today with thunder and lightning. The courtyard at Shanti Dan was flooded within a matter of minates!Wehad to wait it out before we could leave and when we left the streets were like a shallow creek! As I'm writing, it is pouring rain as if you were standing under a waterfall. The nice thing, though, is that it never lasts too long and it tends to keep the temperature down. I think I may just be getting used to the heat....I'm not profusely sweating anymore! Alright, I'm off to find an ATM and do rupee/dollar conversions and find some peanut butter and fresh mangos! Until later....
~Rachel

Kolkata

Hello Everyone! I've been in Kolkata for 3 1/2 days and yet it feels as though I've lived here for weeks already. I don't mean that in the sense that I'm bored or that the time is slowly creeping by, but rather I feel like I'm taking in so much information at once that I need weeks to process what I'm experiencing. As I mentioned previously, Kolkata is literally a whirlwind of activity and it seems as though the city never sleeps. At times, I escape up to the roof of our hotel to catch some solitude and cool breezes. Depending on the time of day, it also seems to be the gathering place of the hotel and it's really fun to meet people from literally all over the world who have come to Kolkata to either volunteer or travel.
I had my orientation at Missionaries of Charity this past friday and have decided to work in a home called Shanti Dan which serves women with mental disabilities. I will work here for the month of July and then will transition to the Ghandi Welfare Center for the months of August and September. This center serves the street children of Kolkata and I think I'll primarily be teaching english and math. My experience of Shanti Dan so far has been both challenging and inspiring. The first challenge was to figure out how to get to this home which is located accross the city from where I'm staying. Fortunately, I just started asking volunteers if they knew anyone who was working at this home and met a girl from L.A. who has been here for a week and knew the way. I'm also working with a large group of girls from Spain. On my way over, Allision (the girl from L.A.) informed me that the sisters as well as most of the volunteers all speak Spanish! So, I guess I'm going to learn Spanish in India! I definately was not expecting that! :)
Upon entering the center, I was swarmed with all the women greeting me ("namaste") and wanting to hold my hand and show me around. They are all very sweet and welcoming. It was also kind of refreshing to be around women because Indian women at least in my experience so far seem to be invisible. I have never been more aware of my womanhood than walking down the streets of Kolkata. One of my first questions was, " where are all the women?" One of the challenging things about the center is that there really is no instruction as to what you're supposed to be doing. So, it's really up to you to decide what kinds of activities you want to do with the women. So far, I've spent time building friendships, playing volleyball, dancing, cutting fingernails, folding laundry, etc. Another challenge is that most of the women speak Bengali. There are a few exceptions, but for the most part I have to rely on non-verbal communication. It truly is amazing to me though how much can be communicated through a smile or hand motions. In addition, the women seem so excited to have volunteers there who are willing to sit with them, hold their hands, or work alongside them. I have a feeling that I'm going to learn a lot from these women.
Well, I'm running out of time to write at the moment. I have to go do my laundry (by hand) before the next monsoon rain comes through! I'm thrilled that I came in monsoon season though because the rain feels so good in contrast to the heat and humidity. I don't think you ever stop sweating here!!!.....but I'm sure I'll get accustomed to it shortly. Until later.....
Rachel Kovensky