thoughts as time races by...

Wow! Time seems to be racing by at the moment. I feel like it moves past me with a combination of sights, hues, sounds, scents, memories, thoughts, hopes, and experiences. When I embarked on this journey, I thought that six months would feel like an eternity. However, I'm beginning to realize that I'll be on my way home before I know it;trying to frantically but methodically make sense of everything I've experienced while preparing for and looking forward to Christmas in the United States. I think these thoughts are coming to me because of my realization that I only have 8 days left in Kolkata! On September 1st, my friend Grace and I will be flying to Pondicherry in Southern India to volunteer our time at the Sri Aurobindo Society, an ashram that works on multiple community development, educational, and sustainable agriculture projects. I was referred to this organization by one of my former professors who is working on an international exchange program with their organization and the University of Oregon. I'm really looking forward to this experience and will be their until the 17th of September. While I'm looking forward to experiencing another part of India as well as a change of pace from the big city, I know that I'm going to miss the women at Shanti Dan whom I've come to know. I even know that I'll miss Kolkata in part; the sights, sounds, places, and people I've become accustomed to and built an affinity for. I'm beginning to realize, though, that this transition represents one of many chapters that this journey contains. Each chapter containing important lessons and experiences that will shape and change the way in which I see the world and my purpose in it. Therefore, change I must embrace.
Upon leaving Pondicherry, Grace and I plan to make our way to Darjeeling, Varanasi, & Agra. Darjeeling is situated on India's northern border and is surrounded by supposedly breathtaking views of the Himalaya Mountains. This is particularly exciting because the monsoons are supposed to lift from the area in September; allowing the views to which it gains it's fame. Varanasi is one of the holiest places for Hindus and many come to this city along the Ganges River to die. Finally, Agra is home to the Taj Mahal. So, there you have it, my tentative outline for the rest of my time here in India! On October 1st, I'll be flying to Bangkok, Thailand to begin yet another chapter.
I've been doing a lot of reflection lately on my time spent here in Kolkata. There have been many blessings coupled with many hardships. I wouldn't say many hardships for myself necessarily. Rather, I would say that I have bore witness to many hardships both with my ears and my eyes. I am beginning to really become aware of the living dichotomy that is Kolkata. For instance, on my walk from my hotel to the Mother House in the morning, I will often pass men 'shooting up' heroin and emaciated babies sleeping next to their mothers on the sidewalk littered with plastic rubbish. That same afternoon, I might find myself in a four level shopping mall watching affluent Indians take part in the fruits of effective Commercialism. I may speak with a rickshaw driver who comes to Kolkata in order to earn enough money to send back to his family or a woman at Shanti Dan who has lost her father to tuberculosis. I may also speak with seemingly well-off college students at Calcutta University; discussing philosophy and sipping espresso drowned in milk with a heaping scoop of sugar. This dichotomy is challenging. Both are parts of reality; but one reality seems acceptable and another inexcusable. I know that varying aspects of these realities exist in the United States as well, but their existance seems to be highlighted or perhaps more visible here in Kolkata.
I'm out of time at the moment, but I will write more on these reflections soon. Hope you are all well and my love goes out to each and every one of you.

Happy Independence Day India!

I dont' have long to write at the moment, but I thought I'd let you all know that India is celebrating it's independence from British rule today, August 15th! It's been fun to see how the city streets have changed in preparation for this holiday. There have been giant stages erected seemingly overnight with periodic performances and a constant stream of music. There are also tiny indian flags that are hung above the streets by the hundreds. Walking to the bus stop from Shanti Dan this morning, I was struck by all of the intermingling colors and sounds....a coming together of sorts for each person celebrating in their own way. I'm curious to see what sort of festivities will be held this evening!
Today, everyone seems to be in good spirits and the roads are relatively empty because of the holiday....a nice break for sure! A little boy came up to me on the street today and shared his umbrella with me during one of the periodic downpours this time of year...his name is Saheb and his kindness really stood out...alright...that's all I have time for at the moment...but I'll write more soon....

New Home, Market Adventure, & Shanti Dan

Hello All! As I wrote before, I'm back to life in the city. The one differance is that my friend Grace and I have moved to a new hotel. I'm now staying at the Afridi International Guesthouse which is a hotel intended for longterm volunteers. Our room is really amazing because it has really high ceilings with four gigantic windows that allow great airflow ( a must in this climate!). It is still a simple room with chipping pink walls and a couple of dusty desks, but the natural light and high ceilings make it feel like heaven. Grace has hung some paper lanterns that she got in Nepal and of course they are mixed in with our clotheslines which are consistently adorned with drying laundry. In the evening, we light candles that we purchased at the market and enjoy the cool breezes as we read, write, stretch, and listen to the sounds of the city as it begins to slow its frantic pace. I try to get to bed somewhat early because every morning I'm awoken to the sound of the Muslim call to prayer that resonates throughout the city at 4:30 AM!
The other perk about our new hotel, is that it has a kitchen! By a kitchen, I mean a small fridge and two burners with a few random pots and cooking utensils. However simple, I was ecstatic about the idea of cooking and set off for New Market. I weaved my way through the maze of the market and came away with items such as curry, almonds, darjeeling tea, whole wheat pasta (a miracle to find!), lentils, garbanzo beans, bell peppers, zucchini, garlic, ginger, carrots, onions, potatoes, apples, bananas, etc.! My cooking extravaganza starts tonight and I'm really excited about using the curry....it smells AMAZING! Along the way, I stopped and chatted with many of the shop owners. One man was telling me that this market has been in existance for 100 years. He said that his shop began with his grandfather and has been passed from generation to generation ever since. His son will take over the shop after him. He was very friendly and told me all about the upcoming festivals, the pace of life in India, and the people he's met over the years. When I told him I was from the United States, he questioned me saying, "Both your father and mother were born there?" When I said "yes", he explained that he was really surprised that I was from the U.S. because to him I looked Swedish! What???!! As funny as that sounds, this sort of thing happens to me all the time here. Just the other day, a doctor I met from Japan asked me where I was from and she was shocked to hear that I was from the U.S. She said that she assumed I was from France or Spain! :)
On another note, returning to work with the women at Shanti Dan has been incredible. My first day back after my trip to Nepal, many of the women that I've been building relationships with came up to me with huge smiles and warm greetings. Veronica, a beautiful old woman who I've spent much time sitting with, took my head in her hands and kissed both of my cheeks and forehead. She also sang a beautiful song in Hindi to me. Louise, a sweet and genuine woman just a few years older than I, said, "Rachel, you're back!" and insisted that I sit with her while she filled me in on the past week's events. We've been teaching each other songs and dancing when a catchy tune comes on the radio. One of the women's favorite Hindi songs has the booming chorus, "I am a disco dancer!" It's really hilarious! To be honest, though, it's a blast to dance to! :) Needless to say, I'm loving the work I'm doing here and will be sad when I have to say goodbye to these precious women. I don't have to think about that quite yet, though. Right now, I'm trying to focus on soaking up as much of Kolkata as possible until my journey takes me elsewhere....

Kolkata: Home Sweet Home!?

I wanted to let everybody know that I made it back to Kolkata safe and sound. The journey back was a little crazy with an overnight bus, horse drawn carriage ride at 6:00 AM, and subsequent 17 hour train ride!!! The bus had been slightly overbooked and so naturally they requested that the seven of us cram into the back seat of the bus. I've never really considered myself prone to claustrophobia before...but hey....there's a first time for everything! I didn't really sleep because every time I managed to doze off, we would hit a pothole and my head would bang against the metal bar going accross the window! Ouch! Anyway, after awhile I gave up on the sleeping idea and listened to some 'chill' music while staring at the almost full moon that was lighting up the black night sky. It struck me that I was staring at the same moon that my friends and family back home were probably gazing up at. This realization reminded me that the world is amazing vast and yet so interconnected and 'small' at the same time.
The team I've been traveling with went home two days ago which has been a big change for me. I still have my friend, Grace, which is an amazing gift, but it's hard to have them gone. We were all really close which was evident to even those outside our group. We had several people who we met along the way who commented on the sense of love and closeness that shone through our group. I credit that firstly to God who we all love and desire to know more and secondly to the character of each and every member of the team that I had the privilege of knowing and serving with. Despite this sense of loss, though, I kind of feel like their departure has marked a new stage of my journey. Walking down the streets of Kolkata with Grace, I realized that Kolkata is beginning to feel like home in a way. I wouldn't call it 'sweet', but it is definately where I'm supposed to be in life right now which feels really good. I'm running out of time at the moment, but I will write more later.......much love to you all....

Enjoying Magic and Cool Air

Wow! If there is one word that describes Nepal in my mind, it is 'magical'. I think that it might be my favorite place on earth at the moment. Before I get ahead of myself though, I'll start from the beginning of my journey from India to Nepal. It all began with a 17 hour train ride from Kolkata to the Nepali border. While that is an intense amount of time to spend on a train, I really enjoyed watching the bustle of the city fade to green fields and small villages. Traveling by land really allows one the opportunity to see a fuller picture of the country one is passing through and the time and space to take it all in. Once we arrived at the Nepali border, we took horsedrawn carriages to Indian immigration, Nepali immigration, and finally to a landrover station. After spending 30 minates negotiating a price for the ride from the border to Kathmandu, we were off! Seven hours lapsed and we found ourselves in Kathmandu at twilight. However, those seven hours were some of the most terrifying and ruggedly beautiful hours of my life! We began our drive enjoying the fresh air and cool breezes as we followed a fast-moving river that cut through the lush mountain valley. As we began to climb up into the massive foothills of the Himalayas, the views were spectacular and truly breathtaking! The road was really not much wider than the land rover we were traveling in and was filled with twists and turns that composed seemingly neverending switchbacks up into the mountains. Every time we took a turn, the driver honked his horn incessantly as to avoid a collision around the blind corners that were more of the rule than the exception. I think it was probably the most precarious drive of my life, but also the most beautiful. It was also a good lesson in prayer and conquering my fear of heights! :)
When we awoke the next morning, we were off to explore the city of Kathmandu. We stopped in the Pumpernickel Bakery for some breakfast which was amazing! Fresh brown bread with peanut butter, whole wheat porridge, and darjeeling tea! Yumm! The food compared to Kampala is amazingly fresh and delicious which reminds me that I'm on vacation. I spent the rest of the day window shopping which was fun, but the tourist-geared streets annoy me after awhile. The next day, we hopped on a bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara which is a smaller town surrounded by mountains and containing a beautiful 5 km long lake. On the bus ride there, I met this girl named Michelle from England who has traveled accross Spain, Germany, Poland, Russia, China, Malaysia, Tibet, and now Nepal over the past 6 months. She has done all of this travelling over land because she doesn't believe in flying for environmental reasons which I had some serious admiration for. She's done a lot of work in environmentalism like participating in community education programs focused on sustainable and organic gardening and fixing up old bicycles in hopes of bringing some of the existing cars off the road. When I told her that I've never owned a car and ride my bike instead, she said, "Wow! That's impressive, especially considering you're an American!" She's headed off to Northern India in a week in hopes of taking classes to become a yoga instructer. By the time we reached Pokhara, she was part of the team and hung out with us until we left for our trek the following day. It's so awesome to get to meet so many amazing people along the way...I think it's one of my favorite aspects of traveling.
Once we arrived in Pokhara, we grabbed some lunch at an organic cafe that was claiming to be a German bakery. I had some cous-cous with veggies and tomato sauce with a delicious cup of coffee (my first cup this entire trip!). Needless to say, it was perfect! Gracie, Brian, and I were then off in search of bikes to rent. Although the bikes were nothing to speak of, the ride was beautiful and exhilerating. I don't really know how to explain how beautiful biking along a Nepali lake at twilight is! In the middle of our ride, we parked our bikes along the shore and dove in! The water was perfect...warm but refreshing and it felt so good to swim after spending a month in the heat and humidity of Kolkata! That night, we grabbed some Nepali food which I'm in love with and went to bed early as we were planning an early morning swim. We woke the next morning at 5:30 AM and were swimming by 6:00 AM. After a dip in the cool water and the solace of the dawn, we all went to breakfast and said our goodbyes to our new friend, Michelle.
We hopped on a bus to Birethanti and were there in a couple of hours. We devoured samosas and bananas at this little village and were off on our trek into the Nepali foothills. The hike began with a flat and meandering path along a rushing river, terraced gardens adorning the hillsides, and small villages filled with ducklings, chicks, and children enthusiastically greeting us with 'namaste'. The trail was often half land half creek and it was at these moments that I thanked God for Chacos! As I hiked, I couldn't get over the incredible beauty that surrounded me. When I said that Nepal is magical, part of what I meant by that is that the terrain is such that if one were to see a fairy flitting about or a dragon cutting accross the sky, I don't know if one would feel any surprise. I kind of felt like I had been transported into the Hobbit or some other fairytale. Nepal's landscape also reminded me of a painter who is faintly etching bright but subtle details onto a vast and rich canvas. It feels like humanity has just barely traced its mark on the land here which adds to its magic and mystery.
The first night, our hiking ended at this tiny mountain village facing three cascading waterfalls and the valley below. The river we had walked alongside before looked like a small creek from this height. We met a young boy here who said that we could pitch our tents on some land below his house. When his mom found out, however, she insisted that we camp in front of their house as that other piece of land tends to flood when it rains. We pitched our tents and rushed off to play with probably 40 village children who were eagerly watching us with curiosity. We played tag, ring around the rosy, london bridges, duck duck goose (guku guku bakra (duck duck goat in their language)), and the rain game for hours! Brian and some of the village boys took sticks and began drumming on this large plastic vat and the dance party and spinning games began. These children ranged in age from probably about 3 to 9 and were so amazing! Some were bold, their eyes filled with curiousity and eager anticipation. Others were shy, timid, and cautious. Their shyness was often turned into fits of giggling with a quick tickle however. After hours of playing, we returned to our tents exhausted but enthused with energy from these incredible children. The woman whose home we were camped in front of came out and offered to cook us dinner because she said, " The seven of you, I really like!" We feasted that night on spaghetti, rice, dhal, and curried vegetables!
The next morning we woke up early and discovered after some tea and porridge that some children and adults from the village were gathered seeking our assistance with their wounds. Most of the adult's wounds were from the steep rock steps that they ascend and descend on a daily basis. Fortunately, we all have first aide kits and were able to disinfect and bandage their wounds to the best of our ability. I can't imagine what it must be like living way up in these hills and needing medical attention. My guess is that most of these needs go without attention in most cases.
We were then off on our second day of trekking which would prove to be an incredibly challenging experience. We literally climbed these almost vertical cobblestone steps for about 6 hours! As if this weren't challenging enough, I was carrying about a 40-50 pound pack! Back home, I 'm a really active and athletic person, but this was honestly one of the hardest things I have ever done. We trekked accross bridges crossing rushing waterfalls, over landslide areas that were a bit nerve-racking, and through villages that were always friendly and hospitable. Towards the end of the day, we reached a sign that read that we wouldn't see any villages for the next two hours. We headed into the Nepali jungle and soon after the monsoon rains hit! The trails transformed into creeks and waterfalls and it was at this point that we discovered the leeches!!!! Leeches before this point had always been a disturbing creature found in storybooks and national geographic. However, now I found myself shouting through the downpour for our team to put on socks and long pants and have their lighters ready. Poor Grace had probably 8 leeches on her feet when we discovered them and I had to calm her and hold her still while Brian ripped them off! We spent the next 2 hours cruising through the jungle and up neverending vertical steps. Once we reached the top, we spotted a village and everyone shrieked with joy. We crawled into this room warmed with a woodstove and hopped into a 'warm shower' which consisted of a bucket of water and a ladle. We finished dealing with the leeches which left most people's shoes, socks, and plants covered in blood! Thankfully, I only think I had one leech. I never saw it...only the bloody mark on my back. Maybe they don't like my blood type... I don't know....all I know was that I was very lucky compared to the rest of my team. I jokingly told them that I didn't get any because God knew I couldn't handle it! Ha! Probably true!
The rest of the night was quite pleasant though. The experience, although extremely challenging, really brought our team together and we spent the evening huddled around the fire in this hotel tucked away in the Nepali mountain jungle. We exchanged massages, feasted on amazing food, and shared our life stories. We spent the next two days making our descent and we arrived safely in Pokhara yesterday and Kathmandu today! We all can barely walk we are so sore, but we all agree it was an amazing experience worth all the pain and joy that went into it. Alright, I'm off to join my team for a dinner in Kathmandu...it's one of our last as most of my team is flying home on August 6th. I hope you are all doing well....I love and miss you all.......