Hello Again! I just wanted to let everyone following this blog know that I'll be headed for Nepal tomorrow afternoon. I'm not sure if I'll have much access to the internet, so it may be awhile before I write again. I'll return to Kolkata on August 5th, but who knows maybe I'll have some time to escape to an internet cafe while I'm there. :) I'm really excited for a break from the hustle and bustle of the city and I hear Nepal is a bit cooler than Kolkata which is always a perk! Right now, our travel plans are still very flexible and up in the air. But, we definately want to do some hiking as the views of the Himalayas are supposed to be breathtaking.
Today has been a good day so far. After breakfast at Mother House, it was announced that another strike is underway in the city which means that all buses and taxis aren't running! I was disappointed because that means I can't go to Shanti Dan because I have to get there by bus. However, one of my friends offered to take me to Shishu Bavan which is a home for children with mental and physical disabilities. It was a great opporutunity to see firsthand some of the other work that Missions of Charity does. The children were adorable, but it was challenging for me to see that many of these children have had their childhood stripped away from them at such an early age. Many of the children seemed to not know how to play. Many of the children would hoard toys in piles rather than play with them. After much time and patience, I was able to engage a few of the children with some building blocks, but it definately took a lot of effort. I know that the children are in a much better situation than they would be if left on the streets, but it is definately challenging at times when I think about the standards of practice I've been taught in the United States and the realities that are present here. It presents an interesting ethical dilemma that I think will challenge me throughout my journey.
Alright, I'm off to go pick up our team's passport photos for our Nepal visas! Another reason I'm excited for this trip is to spend some time with my team before they return to the U.S. on August 6th. I know it's going to feel weird going from traveling with eight to traveling with two. I'm really thankful that Grace will be with me for the remainder of my time in India. It's nice to have someone else there to reflect with. I'm off, but I'll try to keep you guys posted on my ventures in Nepal!
Friday, July 24, 2009
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Solar Eclipse
Yesterday was a unique and event-filled day! I woke up at 4:30 AM, took a much-needed shower, and scampered to the roof of my hotel to catch a view of the solar eclipse that I've been hearing rumors of ever since I got here. I guess this sort of eclipse only happens once every 100 years or so. Needless to say, I chose the right time to come to India! The Kolkata skies are always filled with clouds that seem to be on some sort of mission as they race accross the sky. Consequently, the eclipse was often shrouded by these clouds, but I definately still caught a glimpse of the sun looking more like a sliver of the moon than the golden ball I'm used to seeing.
At 6:30 AM, we gathered all of our duffle bags full of supplies to be donated and hired two rickshaws to carry them to Mother House which is where all of the volunteers meet for breakfast and announcements before heading off for work. The sisters there were so thankful for all of the supplies we brought and I have no doubt that they will be put to good use. Breakfast is provided for all volunteers every morning and it consists of bread, bananas, and chai. After breakfast, a prayer is said and we sing a song together. Then, anouncements are made and the doors are opened and we all leave in mass exodus to catch our respective buses.
I love working at Shanti Dan more and more each time I go. One woman I work with always wants to borrow my pen and paper and every day she writes a page in Bengali for me. I go through a bottle of nail polish every day because there are so many women who want me to paint their nails. Every day the music is turned on around 10:00 am and I often spend some time dancing with the women. The women love to dance and they also like to laugh at me when I join in! One of the women came up to me after dancing and said, "Sister, you are very sweet. I will miss you when you are gone!" I knew the feeling was mutual...working with these women has truly been eye-opening and inspiring.
After our shift was over, I went out for Chinese food with Clara & Theresa (both from Spain) and Allison (from L.A.). Allison is staying in the home of an Indian woman who rents out a room in her home to volunteers. She offered to take us shopping for suits (a typical outfit worn by Indian women here) because she knows how the process works and what things should REALLY cost!!! When we got to her home, she made us chai and cookies and was so excited to go shopping with us. She even put on her jeans for the occasion which she was really excited about! We then went to pick up her friend who is apparently an expert on saris. She showed us her home which was no bigger than a closet (i'm not exagerating)! She sleeps here with her two daughters and son. Her husband is deceased, but when he was alive he used to sleep on a cot just outside the door. The woman who was taking us shopping kept saying, "My friend is very poor, but she has a big heart!" She also whispered... "she's a Christian too." I had noticed that she had a picture of Jesus up on the wall. In the State of West Bengal, this is significant because Christians compose less than 2% of the population. We then spent the next couple of hours shopping which was quite the process of going from shop to shop, examining materials, bartering, and learning when to walk away!
Upon returning to my hotel, I was needing some rest and a bite to eat. So, my friend Grace and I escaped to the Spanish cafe where I had a salad, fresh mango juice, and half of a cinnamon roll. The electricity went out, but everyone continued to hang out in the dark like it was completely normal. One of the girls from my team is leaving early because she has to be back for her brother's wedding, so we went to the bakery to get a going away cake. But, when we got there, there were a bunch of men outside with communist flags who were chanting and seemingly blocking the entrance. Apparently, the bakery owner had fired six workers and the protesters were demanding that he rehire them. But, our friend Brian snuck in anyway and escaped safely with a chocolate cake in tow! We devoured the cake on the roof of our hotel (which honestly was really not that great!). It was still a fun celebration though! If you can't tell by my writing, I'm very tired at the moment, so I think I'm going to go get some rest! Until later....
At 6:30 AM, we gathered all of our duffle bags full of supplies to be donated and hired two rickshaws to carry them to Mother House which is where all of the volunteers meet for breakfast and announcements before heading off for work. The sisters there were so thankful for all of the supplies we brought and I have no doubt that they will be put to good use. Breakfast is provided for all volunteers every morning and it consists of bread, bananas, and chai. After breakfast, a prayer is said and we sing a song together. Then, anouncements are made and the doors are opened and we all leave in mass exodus to catch our respective buses.
I love working at Shanti Dan more and more each time I go. One woman I work with always wants to borrow my pen and paper and every day she writes a page in Bengali for me. I go through a bottle of nail polish every day because there are so many women who want me to paint their nails. Every day the music is turned on around 10:00 am and I often spend some time dancing with the women. The women love to dance and they also like to laugh at me when I join in! One of the women came up to me after dancing and said, "Sister, you are very sweet. I will miss you when you are gone!" I knew the feeling was mutual...working with these women has truly been eye-opening and inspiring.
After our shift was over, I went out for Chinese food with Clara & Theresa (both from Spain) and Allison (from L.A.). Allison is staying in the home of an Indian woman who rents out a room in her home to volunteers. She offered to take us shopping for suits (a typical outfit worn by Indian women here) because she knows how the process works and what things should REALLY cost!!! When we got to her home, she made us chai and cookies and was so excited to go shopping with us. She even put on her jeans for the occasion which she was really excited about! We then went to pick up her friend who is apparently an expert on saris. She showed us her home which was no bigger than a closet (i'm not exagerating)! She sleeps here with her two daughters and son. Her husband is deceased, but when he was alive he used to sleep on a cot just outside the door. The woman who was taking us shopping kept saying, "My friend is very poor, but she has a big heart!" She also whispered... "she's a Christian too." I had noticed that she had a picture of Jesus up on the wall. In the State of West Bengal, this is significant because Christians compose less than 2% of the population. We then spent the next couple of hours shopping which was quite the process of going from shop to shop, examining materials, bartering, and learning when to walk away!
Upon returning to my hotel, I was needing some rest and a bite to eat. So, my friend Grace and I escaped to the Spanish cafe where I had a salad, fresh mango juice, and half of a cinnamon roll. The electricity went out, but everyone continued to hang out in the dark like it was completely normal. One of the girls from my team is leaving early because she has to be back for her brother's wedding, so we went to the bakery to get a going away cake. But, when we got there, there were a bunch of men outside with communist flags who were chanting and seemingly blocking the entrance. Apparently, the bakery owner had fired six workers and the protesters were demanding that he rehire them. But, our friend Brian snuck in anyway and escaped safely with a chocolate cake in tow! We devoured the cake on the roof of our hotel (which honestly was really not that great!). It was still a fun celebration though! If you can't tell by my writing, I'm very tired at the moment, so I think I'm going to go get some rest! Until later....
Monday, July 20, 2009
Kolkata Skies and City Buses!
I thank God that I'm feeling 100% better! After laying for three days in my dark, intensely hot, and painfully humid room, I was ready for a change of pace! Needless to say, I havn't spent much time in my room lately and have been eating with a voracious appetite....trying to gain back the weight I lost while being sick! My first day better, I journeyed down Park St to the Park Street Cemetery which offers a brief glimpse into India's colonial past. It's a beautiful place with giant shade trees and a tranquility that is often lost in this city of 15 million people. The tombs are marked not with mere gravestones, but rather structures that are more like towers with elaborate epitaphs. It is a British cemetary that dates back to the 1800's and one will see many references to the British East India Company. A lot of the tombs were dedicated to young women who I assume by the heartfelt poems enscripted on the front died in childbirth. Some were older, though, and causes of death ranged from illness to a ship that sunk in the Ganges river. It was definately worth the visit if only for the moment of solitude!
Later that evening, I perched in the hammock on the roof of my hotel and watched the clouds race accross the sky. So, I have to say that I've never seen a sky more full of life than in Kolkata. At twilight, one can watch the thick but whispy white clouds engulfing the empty sky which is fading from blue to grey to black. At twilight, there is a golden glow that illuminates the city and the crows and sparrows take turns completing their circuits accross the sky...or so it seems. Also, just after it gets dark, you will hear an almost operetic voice coming from the street. The first few nights, I assumed it was a recording, but one night I peaked out onto the street out of curiousity and realized that this beautiful enchanting sound was coming from a slight Indian man led by his wife. The man is blind and his wife leads him around every evening while he sings for money.
A note about city buses. So, the strike I mentioned previously ended after 12 hours and the city is back to normal at the moment. So, my commute to Shanti Dan consists of buses, auto rickshaws, and taxis. The bus is absolutely crazy. You wait at an unmarked bus-stop...looking for the bus that bears the number you're looking for. Then, you leep on hoping that there's room for you...there usually is...just barely. You cling on to any part of the bus you can get your hands on and you literally can't move because there are bodies all around you! There are no marked bus-stops...the toll-collector just beats on the bus and yells when there are people who want to get off. I've learned to take note of landmarks so I know where to get off! You then have to leap off the bus before it starts moving again..they don't always wait ...so you have to be on your toes!Once we get to our "stop", we have to take an auto rickshaw...a covered moterized scooter thing that seats 6 people. The trick, however, is that the driver won't move until there are 6 passengers! So, luckily I travel with the other volunteers! Otherwise, I may be sitting there for awhile!
Alright, I've run out of time for the moment....I'm off to plan my trip to Nepal at the end of this month!
Later that evening, I perched in the hammock on the roof of my hotel and watched the clouds race accross the sky. So, I have to say that I've never seen a sky more full of life than in Kolkata. At twilight, one can watch the thick but whispy white clouds engulfing the empty sky which is fading from blue to grey to black. At twilight, there is a golden glow that illuminates the city and the crows and sparrows take turns completing their circuits accross the sky...or so it seems. Also, just after it gets dark, you will hear an almost operetic voice coming from the street. The first few nights, I assumed it was a recording, but one night I peaked out onto the street out of curiousity and realized that this beautiful enchanting sound was coming from a slight Indian man led by his wife. The man is blind and his wife leads him around every evening while he sings for money.
A note about city buses. So, the strike I mentioned previously ended after 12 hours and the city is back to normal at the moment. So, my commute to Shanti Dan consists of buses, auto rickshaws, and taxis. The bus is absolutely crazy. You wait at an unmarked bus-stop...looking for the bus that bears the number you're looking for. Then, you leep on hoping that there's room for you...there usually is...just barely. You cling on to any part of the bus you can get your hands on and you literally can't move because there are bodies all around you! There are no marked bus-stops...the toll-collector just beats on the bus and yells when there are people who want to get off. I've learned to take note of landmarks so I know where to get off! You then have to leap off the bus before it starts moving again..they don't always wait ...so you have to be on your toes!Once we get to our "stop", we have to take an auto rickshaw...a covered moterized scooter thing that seats 6 people. The trick, however, is that the driver won't move until there are 6 passengers! So, luckily I travel with the other volunteers! Otherwise, I may be sitting there for awhile!
Alright, I've run out of time for the moment....I'm off to plan my trip to Nepal at the end of this month!
Friday, July 17, 2009
What I Call "Initiation"...
So, I feel like everyone traveling (especially in the developing world) has to get sick at some point. I think of it as one's initiation to a new climate, new virus and germ world, new standards of cleanliness, etc. That said, my initiation has begun! I've spent the last 2 1/2 days laying in bed for the most part. I think I must have some type of flu because I have a fever, achiness everywhere, dizziness, and weakness! Lots of fun! I managed to get some laundry done yesterday, but I had to lie down every few min. to fight off the nausea and dizziness. It was nice though because the day I was most sick was Thursday and that is our day off from working. I'm feeling better now though. I managed to eat something and so far that is going well. My fever has also decreased from 101 to 99...so that's progress.
While I've been sick, apparently a 12 hour bandh (strike) has been called in the city of Kolkata. Apparently, one of the political leaders did not win at the polls and so a huge group of people have called this strike. Yesterday, 16 city buses were burned and a farmer was killed. Apparently, the farmer got caught between the mob and the police. The police claim that he had a heart attack, but I have some serious doubts about that. So, today all buses, trains, and subways aren't running. Many businesses are closed today as well. So, many volunteers couldn't work at the homes because they have to take buses to get there. So, maybe it's a good time to get sick after all! I asked the hotel owner if these strikes happen often and he said that they do. While I often don't agree with the politics in the United States, it did make me thankful that for the most part we have a relatively stable and peaceful political environment.
Alright, I think I'm going to try and get some more rest. Love and miss you all!
While I've been sick, apparently a 12 hour bandh (strike) has been called in the city of Kolkata. Apparently, one of the political leaders did not win at the polls and so a huge group of people have called this strike. Yesterday, 16 city buses were burned and a farmer was killed. Apparently, the farmer got caught between the mob and the police. The police claim that he had a heart attack, but I have some serious doubts about that. So, today all buses, trains, and subways aren't running. Many businesses are closed today as well. So, many volunteers couldn't work at the homes because they have to take buses to get there. So, maybe it's a good time to get sick after all! I asked the hotel owner if these strikes happen often and he said that they do. While I often don't agree with the politics in the United States, it did make me thankful that for the most part we have a relatively stable and peaceful political environment.
Alright, I think I'm going to try and get some more rest. Love and miss you all!
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Shanti Dan and Monsoon Rains
Hello! Wow, again it seems that so much has happened since I last wrote. I couldn't possibly record it all, but I'll try to give you a few highlights! Don't worry, I'm journaling like a maniac! I've worked at Shanti Dan for 5 days now and am loving it more and more! I've started building realationships with the women and getting a better sense of what to do with them. Today, I painted fingernails with some polish I found at the market for 10 rupees (20 cents U.S), gave foot and hand massages with lotion (many of the women have extremely dry skin from the constant laundering), helped hang and fold laundry, and sang songs with them! Many of the women truly have beautiful hearts and really are in need of so much love. I found out that the women that are there are women who were deserted on the streets by their families who didn't want to care for them. People with mental disabilities are extremely vulnerable in this society and are largely left to fend for themselves and many suffer exploitation. Missionaries of Charity goes out to the streets daily looking for those who are in this kind of dire need. If they are willing to come, they are admitted to the homes. So, the work that Missionaries of Charity does is really incredible.
I am also loving the people I'm working with at this home. Right now, we have people from Spain (lots!), France, Germany, Japan, Los Angelos, and Eugene (me). I've mainly been hanging out with the girl from Japan (Jun Ko (spelling??)) and the girls from Spain. They are all so nice and welcoming and they think my accent is "so cute...so american" they say! I tell them I think their accents are cute and they just laugh at me and say "what accent?" Jun Ko is awesome. She is currently on a world tour and has traveled throughout Southeast Asia & India and will be continuing her travels to South Africa and South America! Wow! I thought I liked to travel! I went to lunch with the Spanish girls and they showed me this awesome Spanish cafe where they have the most amazing pineapple and mango juice with the best cinnamon rolls I think I have ever had (sorry sweet life!). The cafe is really cool...it has a room full of seated cushions and air conditioning! I kind of feel like I am in Costa Rica rather than India when I go though because everyone is speaking Spanish (very quickly I might add!) I tried to explain to the Spanish girls that I'm a vegan and they said they have never heard of such a thing and gave me a strict lecture about my protein needs! Apparently, they don't have vegans in Spain! They said that if I ever went to Spain though that I could stay with them....so my trip to Spain is in the works! :)
I think the monsoon rains have arrived. It was raining in torrents today with thunder and lightning. The courtyard at Shanti Dan was flooded within a matter of minates!Wehad to wait it out before we could leave and when we left the streets were like a shallow creek! As I'm writing, it is pouring rain as if you were standing under a waterfall. The nice thing, though, is that it never lasts too long and it tends to keep the temperature down. I think I may just be getting used to the heat....I'm not profusely sweating anymore! Alright, I'm off to find an ATM and do rupee/dollar conversions and find some peanut butter and fresh mangos! Until later....
~Rachel
I am also loving the people I'm working with at this home. Right now, we have people from Spain (lots!), France, Germany, Japan, Los Angelos, and Eugene (me). I've mainly been hanging out with the girl from Japan (Jun Ko (spelling??)) and the girls from Spain. They are all so nice and welcoming and they think my accent is "so cute...so american" they say! I tell them I think their accents are cute and they just laugh at me and say "what accent?" Jun Ko is awesome. She is currently on a world tour and has traveled throughout Southeast Asia & India and will be continuing her travels to South Africa and South America! Wow! I thought I liked to travel! I went to lunch with the Spanish girls and they showed me this awesome Spanish cafe where they have the most amazing pineapple and mango juice with the best cinnamon rolls I think I have ever had (sorry sweet life!). The cafe is really cool...it has a room full of seated cushions and air conditioning! I kind of feel like I am in Costa Rica rather than India when I go though because everyone is speaking Spanish (very quickly I might add!) I tried to explain to the Spanish girls that I'm a vegan and they said they have never heard of such a thing and gave me a strict lecture about my protein needs! Apparently, they don't have vegans in Spain! They said that if I ever went to Spain though that I could stay with them....so my trip to Spain is in the works! :)
I think the monsoon rains have arrived. It was raining in torrents today with thunder and lightning. The courtyard at Shanti Dan was flooded within a matter of minates!Wehad to wait it out before we could leave and when we left the streets were like a shallow creek! As I'm writing, it is pouring rain as if you were standing under a waterfall. The nice thing, though, is that it never lasts too long and it tends to keep the temperature down. I think I may just be getting used to the heat....I'm not profusely sweating anymore! Alright, I'm off to find an ATM and do rupee/dollar conversions and find some peanut butter and fresh mangos! Until later....
~Rachel
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Kolkata
Hello Everyone! I've been in Kolkata for 3 1/2 days and yet it feels as though I've lived here for weeks already. I don't mean that in the sense that I'm bored or that the time is slowly creeping by, but rather I feel like I'm taking in so much information at once that I need weeks to process what I'm experiencing. As I mentioned previously, Kolkata is literally a whirlwind of activity and it seems as though the city never sleeps. At times, I escape up to the roof of our hotel to catch some solitude and cool breezes. Depending on the time of day, it also seems to be the gathering place of the hotel and it's really fun to meet people from literally all over the world who have come to Kolkata to either volunteer or travel.
I had my orientation at Missionaries of Charity this past friday and have decided to work in a home called Shanti Dan which serves women with mental disabilities. I will work here for the month of July and then will transition to the Ghandi Welfare Center for the months of August and September. This center serves the street children of Kolkata and I think I'll primarily be teaching english and math. My experience of Shanti Dan so far has been both challenging and inspiring. The first challenge was to figure out how to get to this home which is located accross the city from where I'm staying. Fortunately, I just started asking volunteers if they knew anyone who was working at this home and met a girl from L.A. who has been here for a week and knew the way. I'm also working with a large group of girls from Spain. On my way over, Allision (the girl from L.A.) informed me that the sisters as well as most of the volunteers all speak Spanish! So, I guess I'm going to learn Spanish in India! I definately was not expecting that! :)
Upon entering the center, I was swarmed with all the women greeting me ("namaste") and wanting to hold my hand and show me around. They are all very sweet and welcoming. It was also kind of refreshing to be around women because Indian women at least in my experience so far seem to be invisible. I have never been more aware of my womanhood than walking down the streets of Kolkata. One of my first questions was, " where are all the women?" One of the challenging things about the center is that there really is no instruction as to what you're supposed to be doing. So, it's really up to you to decide what kinds of activities you want to do with the women. So far, I've spent time building friendships, playing volleyball, dancing, cutting fingernails, folding laundry, etc. Another challenge is that most of the women speak Bengali. There are a few exceptions, but for the most part I have to rely on non-verbal communication. It truly is amazing to me though how much can be communicated through a smile or hand motions. In addition, the women seem so excited to have volunteers there who are willing to sit with them, hold their hands, or work alongside them. I have a feeling that I'm going to learn a lot from these women.
Well, I'm running out of time to write at the moment. I have to go do my laundry (by hand) before the next monsoon rain comes through! I'm thrilled that I came in monsoon season though because the rain feels so good in contrast to the heat and humidity. I don't think you ever stop sweating here!!!.....but I'm sure I'll get accustomed to it shortly. Until later.....
Rachel Kovensky
I had my orientation at Missionaries of Charity this past friday and have decided to work in a home called Shanti Dan which serves women with mental disabilities. I will work here for the month of July and then will transition to the Ghandi Welfare Center for the months of August and September. This center serves the street children of Kolkata and I think I'll primarily be teaching english and math. My experience of Shanti Dan so far has been both challenging and inspiring. The first challenge was to figure out how to get to this home which is located accross the city from where I'm staying. Fortunately, I just started asking volunteers if they knew anyone who was working at this home and met a girl from L.A. who has been here for a week and knew the way. I'm also working with a large group of girls from Spain. On my way over, Allision (the girl from L.A.) informed me that the sisters as well as most of the volunteers all speak Spanish! So, I guess I'm going to learn Spanish in India! I definately was not expecting that! :)
Upon entering the center, I was swarmed with all the women greeting me ("namaste") and wanting to hold my hand and show me around. They are all very sweet and welcoming. It was also kind of refreshing to be around women because Indian women at least in my experience so far seem to be invisible. I have never been more aware of my womanhood than walking down the streets of Kolkata. One of my first questions was, " where are all the women?" One of the challenging things about the center is that there really is no instruction as to what you're supposed to be doing. So, it's really up to you to decide what kinds of activities you want to do with the women. So far, I've spent time building friendships, playing volleyball, dancing, cutting fingernails, folding laundry, etc. Another challenge is that most of the women speak Bengali. There are a few exceptions, but for the most part I have to rely on non-verbal communication. It truly is amazing to me though how much can be communicated through a smile or hand motions. In addition, the women seem so excited to have volunteers there who are willing to sit with them, hold their hands, or work alongside them. I have a feeling that I'm going to learn a lot from these women.
Well, I'm running out of time to write at the moment. I have to go do my laundry (by hand) before the next monsoon rain comes through! I'm thrilled that I came in monsoon season though because the rain feels so good in contrast to the heat and humidity. I don't think you ever stop sweating here!!!.....but I'm sure I'll get accustomed to it shortly. Until later.....
Rachel Kovensky
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